Empty Bar – not a regular occurrence
Before working in the Kitchen for a week on my work experience – and being Johnny no mates in Padstow on a Sunday evening – I thought it would be a smashing idea to experience the restaurant from the Customer side. Upon arrival, and the restaurant having knowledge of my position, I was placed on a table looking directly at the central Bar area where, I was told, I would have the opportunity to watch the Chef at work.
I am not too accustomed to dining alone but from time I do find myself in the position where, if I do not, I am left with visiting the big Yellow Arch or going hungry. So in such circumstances Dinner alone is on the menu.
Summery Grapefruit ad Tonic – oh and a splash of Gin
First a drink – I did not want to order a bottle of wine for One as I don’t do single glasses of wine so I decided to peruse the Cocktail list. I like a G & T now and again so went for a Rick Stein special of Gin with a Fennel and Aniseed taste which came with a slice of Grapefruit inside – beautifully refreshing and the aniseed appealing to my senses.
The menu is quite extensive but not for Carnivores with only a Lamb Rack on offer for anyone not fancying something that swims. Starters range in the £15 area with Mains mostly in the £20’s but some exceeding this by leaps and bounds – Turbot with Hollandaise ( a RS classic) at £45 and the infamous Lobster Thermidor at £66 a head – Yep £60 pp – a lot of money down here in Padstow ! ( or only £60 if you go for a small one !)
How Many Eggs – answers on a postcard please !
Thereafter I am offered 2 types of bread – Walnut and Soda – nothing too special here and an Amuse Bouche of a little shell containing mashed potato, a little Hake and a topping of Caviar – a very exotic ( Caviar😉👍) and delicate dish. Good start – let’s aim to impress !
OK – the main deal – The Food !
I ordered a starter of Fillets of Hake Veloute which my very helpful Waiter suggested was new but the best Starter on the Menu. Well after a short wait this beautifully plated dish arrived and I must say it was astounding ! I simply did not want it to finish. The Hake was soft and breaking up under my fork – poached ? – and it was coupled with wafer thin slices of apple which helped cut through the Veloute with a nicely balanced acidity However what was outrageously wonderful was that with some mouthfuls you encountered Pink Peppercorns, Dill, and, surprisingly, Chopped Dates and Raisons. ( Where has Rick been on his latest travels ?) These were little gems of heaven when coupled with the rest of the dish and one of the best things I have eaten in a while.
My little plate of Heaven !
I had ordered the classic Turbot – really pushing the Village boat out – as my main course but whilst awaiting it a further starter arrived? I was guessing my presence had been recognised by the kitchen and I was getting special treatment – NO, NO – alright YES YES !
What turns up as a surprise second starter are Fillets of Cornish Gurnard with Char Grilled Baby Leeks, Soft boiled egg, Mustard Vinagrette And Parmesan Shavings. A lot going on here and ingredients I never would imagine should be occupying the same plate but it works ! (Especially when it’s free !)
Too much going on – NO !
If there were to be one complaint on this dish I would have hoped for a little more mustard Vinagrette – it was hardly discernible, but when it was, you wanted more of it !
Now to the The Turbot ! It’s billed as Roast Troncon of Wild Turbot with hollandaise Sauce. Apparently People come from around the World to experience this dish and you could almost believe it. It’s classic, it’s served on the bone and if it was ever taken off the menu there could be riots down here on the Harbour.
Its accompanied with minted Cornish Potato’s And Hispi Cabbage with Onion Confit and Chives. It’s a tremendous threesome that works like a dream. Every mouthful of Sweet buttery fish should be coupled with a dash of the Hollandaise and you will smile with every forkful – is that a word ? The Hispi cabbage – on almost every menu these days- has been shredded rather than quartered or halved as you often see and oozes with butter and chives, again very calorific – butter everywhere !
World Famous Troncon
Troncon apparently translates as Section in French so I can understand why they use the Gallic version !
Dessert – I was already full after 3 courses but felt I had to indulge further to be able to review at least 1 dessert.
I ordered a Mexican Rice Pudding with Honeycomb simply because of my weakness for Honeycomb. I was told it would be served at room temperature and with sliced mango and a few spices. Other temptations on the Dessert Menu included classics such as Choc Fondant, Apple Tart and Vanilla Ice Cream and Pear Tarte Tatin with Choccy Ice Cream.
My Mexican Rice Pudding was simple enough but also rewarding with the Scattered Honeycomb.
Hey Gringo – I am Not just rice but Mexican Rice !
This is a Restaurant that really knows what it is doing and showcases Fish and Crustaceans in a spectacular, even if sometimes a simple and classic way. The menu is often tweaked with a new dish appearing following on from Ricks travels and TV shows/ Books etc. One of the latest was my wonderful starter, and another popular dish new to the menu is the Sea Bass Pollichathu – a whole fish baked in a banana skin with a Masala Sauce – a recipe originating from Kerela.
It does not command a Michelin Star and I don’t know what Mr.Stein thinks about that business but if it were in London I would guess it would have been awarded one years ago. It is Fish fine dining in terms of taste but the atmosphere itself was very casual and not imposing or stuffy in any way.
You need to go – if not for splashing out on the Turbot – for my Hake starter !
Rating – BLAZINGLY HOTPAN
SERVICE – VERY HOT PAN ( took ages to get my bill as they had forgot ! )
NB ( I did pay for my meal in full but received an extra starter for free)