Barrafina – Finally cracked the Enigma !
Amazing – is it not – that I have never made it to Barrafina ? Even more incredible when you appreciate there are three of them to choose from, or more correctly there were, as there are now four locations spread around London to chance your unreserved arm at blagging a table.
It is not for want of trying. More than once I have attempted to eat in Barrafina in SoHo – usually latish, after a show, and failed miserably due to their no reservations policy and general popularity, and I guess in part due to my lack of patience. If hungry why wait for an unspecified time when there are so many agreeable alternatives within two or three minutes walking distance ? Indeed the last time I made the effort to grab a table at the Soho branch I met with chaos – a melee of people blocking the doorway and apparently nobody from the restaurant organising the mess. “Sod this for a game of soldiers” I thought, and pranced off elsewhere – yet again.
It’s a date I want to meet but so far the stars have just aligned, even though I am pretty confident that it will be love at first sight, if and when we meet. I may even be bold enough to suggest that things could go so well on the first date that it could lead to something bigger and better between us. However to date our relationship is far from being consummated.
So you can imagine my delight when I read that a brand spanking new Barrafina would be setting up in Coaldrop Yards at the new Uber Trendy spot at the back of a Kings Cross. Whilst it would also continue the no reservations policy it would be the largest restaurant to date, and, hence – in my mind- the ideal opportunity to finally meet with the elusive enigma that is Barrafina.
Taking no chances, and ensuring that my mission on this occasion would not turn out to be Mission Impossible, I set off for a date with destiny on a cold and grey Thursday morning arriving at 12.15, fifteen minutes after opening. I needn’t have worried – other than a couple of Asian tourists occupying a few of the bar stools the space was empty ! A Barrafina all to my self !
The restaurant itself, in keeping with the whole Coaldrop Yards complex, is all exposed brickwork, big glass frontage and a huge bar running the length of the restaurant where shiny red leather and chrome bar stools provide the counter service experience. If this is not your preferred way of dining, the alternative traditional table and chairs and also dotted around the space. There is the opportunity to dine outside, which I imagine will be popular in the coming Summer months, but nobody was brave enough to occupy these tables on this chilly London lunchtime.
In viewing the menu the beauty of Barrafina is that it can appeal to somebody who wants the familiar Tapas experience – Padron Peppers/Pan Con Tomato/Classic Tortilla/ Patatas Bravas etc – or similarly appeal to the more adventurous Tapas eater – Moi. An extremely knowledgeable waitress showed me the tiniest blackboard of specials, and although somewhat small the board contained a dozen or so daily specials which were explained in detail one by one. This could be somewhat time consuming on a busy day but I was wallowing in the luxury of the sound of every dish. Wow – I wanted to try everything ! However I had already spotted some real attractions on the main menu and now I was gastronomicly conflicted ! I needed someone to support me – so much for venturing to restaurants alone – sure you get to choose what you want, but you are in Freddie Mercury territory – I want it all, I want it all, and I want it now !
I gradually filtered my choices down to four dishes, the first of which was the most traditional dish I was prepared to opt in for – Croquettes, but not any old Croquettes, a Morcilla stuffed version. These breaded, happily, rather large spheres arrived bursting open with a satisfying crunch, and containing a decadent and rich sauce with lumps of morcilla combined with red peppers and all sorts of other loveliness. Great start.
I had decided to choose one dish off the specials on the miniature board – in deference and appreciation to detailed explanations received – Razor Clams in a Coral Sauce. These plump, bulbous bi-valves arrived sitting on a pinkish dish of sauce which tasted like the sea with a splash of citrus cutting through the deep fishy depths. The thinnest of crisped breads sat aside the clams for a little crunch and texture, a scattering of chives, and my tastebuds were wowing to the ocean inspired coralline flavour.
From the main menu I had chosen two of my favourite ingredients which could well be marmite to many other diners, but attract me for many reasons, one being that I would not ordinarily prepare them at home. First up were sweetbreads which arrived with Two Mojos ( sauces to you and me) and Papas Arrugas – £12.80). The sweetbreads were pan fried, slightly Caramelised retaining a soft texture and an almost nutty flavour. The two sauces were Green and a Red and both apparently originating from the Canary Islands.
The “Rojo” being tomato based with garlic, paprika, parsley and various other spices. The “Verde” with Sping Onion,Avocado, Green Pepper,Coriander and a similar mix of spices. I favoured the green but both went down well with potatoes and sweetbreads.
Now to what turned out to be my star dish. Red Prawns with Pig Trotters. On ordering this the waitress asked if I had eaten Pigs Trotters before and was I aware of the texture. I responded in the affirmative and this was the reason for choosing them.She explained some people ordered them and were surprised by the Jelly like texture and did not approve – what fools I thought !
Anyway they arrived exactly how I had hoped and in a Tomato based sauce lifting the dish to even higher levels of satisfaction . I resorted to sucking on the Trotters and the Prawn Heads to make the most of them and had no issue with the exquisite mess I was making. On noticing the fun I was having I was promptly provided with a bowl of lemon water to cleanse my greedy little fingers. A wonderful earthy dish, with the gelatinous trotters combining well with the sweet Prawns. Recommended if you are not afraid of the texture and the mess – beware of your shirt/blouse etc !
The food had been washed down with two glasses of sherry. The first a “special” of Manzanilla Pasada en Rama – “En Rama” meaning unfiltered and drinking almost directly from the cask which helps preserve the richness and flavour (£7.50) a glass. Dry and nutty. To compare I followed up with a Amontillado – Valdespino, aged 15 years and a little darker and even nuttier to my fancy. Enjoyed both and could really get into the habit of a nice dry sherry to kick off lunch.
Desserts were declined this time round, as I had already conquered a number of dishes alone and definitely need reinforcements next time round. Barrafina apparently literally translates to “Fine Bar” and I can certainly confirm it is more than fine and certainly more than a Bar. My experience of my first date with Barrafina was as good as anticipated, and I think we may well go on a second date very soon to consummate – what I thought – was the perfect first date. I hope Barrafina feels the same about me ! It’s just a shame it’s taken such a long time coming !
Rating – Food 4/5 – Very Hot Pan
Service 4/5 but 5/5 for the measured and knowledgable explanation of every dish from my waitress.
Barrafina – Beagley Walk, Coaldrop Yard, Kings Cross.
Barrafina.co.uk
