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RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Growing and Going Underground

May 30, 2019 by admin

I have seen the future – it is green, it is efficient and it is happening right now under your feet in Clapham ! When The Jam ( one of my all time favourite popular beat combos) hit the number one spot for the first time in their career in March 1980 they sang about Going Underground to avoid “atomic crimes” and “boys all singing and boys all shouting for tomorrow”. This may have been an apocalyptic response to hide in shelters avoiding a potential future nuclear fallout, and where “kidney machines have been replaced by rockets and guns”, but what I have just experienced is “Growing Underground” – the regeneration of an old World War II shelter being utilised to sustainability grow micro herbs and salad greens, signalling one of the ways forward for future food production in the UK and beyond.

We have all had genius ideas with mates in a pub after having a few (too)many beers, but what old school friends Richard Ballard and Stephen Dring came up with after one or two of their drinking sessions was an urban farming idea utilising hydroponics rather than conventional farming techniques. The friends were both suffering from a slight “mid life” crisis, one with a failed business venture, and the other with an awakening to the passage of time when receiving a Pension Fund Maturity letter. Neither of them had any agricultural experience or expertise, and initial ideas for vertical farming in high rise unused tower blocks proved to be too wieldy and costly to be be a success. Thereafter, and teaming up with an Agricultural expert Chris Nelson, together with Michelin starred chef Michel Roux Junior ( both now board members), Growing Underground was established to grow environmentally friendly, high quality vegetables and herbs.

In a reverse of the original High Rise Farm idea, their attention had been drawn to possible underground farming possibilities. This was assisted by Richards knowledge of World War II shelters he had discovered filming documentaries for Hidden London after he had started on a Film Degree he had had always wanted to undertake but never had had the time.

There are indeed 8 vast subterranean tunnels built around 1941 to shelter London citizens from the blitz, dug out after three or four disastrous direct hits had been suffered on Underground stations that people had been using to hide from the bombs in the early stages of the war. These tunnels are much deeper — 33 metres- than the Underground stations, and all but one are under Northern line stations. They were built to accommodate upto 8000 people at a time, with allocated beds, and were fully self sufficient containing huge fans for air circulation and enough food for 3 months in case of both the entry and exit being blocked.

On the tours that Growing Underground now offer to the public (£35 for an hour and 15 minutes) you get to hear in detail how the guys eventually persuaded TFL to allow them to start using the tunnel situated under Clapham Common Tube. The air ventilation system and entry point (one small lift or 180 steps, 1 more than Covent Garden tube stairway) are more or less being utilised as found after being dormant for many years. In fact the most recent use has been that of companies using the tunnels for archiving, and there is a stash of Beatles archives that both founders would like to get access to but has up until now eluded them.

  • A long way down but even longer back up !

Before descending into the farm your tour guides will insist that all jewellery including any rings with any kind of stone be taken off and put into pockets or lockers. You will also have your phone checked for any cracks. This is all to ensure any particles of glass (or diamonds I guess?) find there way into the herbs. Fortunately, and rather oddly, spectacles escape this rule, for which I was very grateful as otherwise the whole visit would have gone by in a blur to me !

    Once you have descended you have a very fetching dress code imposed upon you – white wellies, a Doctors Style overcoat and hairnet. In my case I also benefited from my first experience wearing a beard snood – very sexy blue little numbers. A deep cleansing hand wash and sanitising gel the follows before your adventure begins.

    • I don’t know how to wear a beard snood ….

    The temperature in the tunnels is pretty comfortable at a consistent 15/16c – in fact a lot cooler than outside on the day I visited which was a balmy 21c. You are first taken into the packaging area which whilst somewhat automated still has a hands on element with 4 work stations for manual packing to ensure the right produce are packed into the right punnets. This was not in operation during our visit as they tend to happen after hours, but you could appreciate how things would run during a busy day when they advised that they are currently running at between 2,000 to 4,000 punnets of micro herbs/salad leafs a day leaving the farm. This is a combination of bulk product and 30g and 70g punnets, and these are now going to customers such as Tesco, Planet Organics, Whole Foods and more recently Ocado, as well of course providing to the restaurant and catering industry. Interestingly here we learnt that their produce cannot be certified organic as it is not grown in Organic soil. So what is it grown in ?

    • Carpet Underlay ?
    • Packing Area

    They are grown in squares called substrate which are basically carpet offcuts resembling underlay. There are companies that take carpet offcuts, use machinery to rip it up and repurpose it for Growing Underground in the Square size required by them. Anglo Recycling is performing this job for Going Underground. They are then soaked in water before being used in the propagation stage. Thereafter the seeds are added to the square ( after being soaked or “chitted”) and put into trays wrapped in plastic to provide humidity, tricking them into thinking they are in soil wherein actually they are sitting in carpets ! Water is also sprayed in to the plastic as required to increase moisture.

    The benefits of this type of farming are multiple. However the main advantage is the efficiency and speed that the growing process experiences in the controlled environment that Growing Underground have created. For example if you take pea shoots in a conventional uncontrolled farming environment you would enjoy approximate 8-10 yields per year. In an uncontrolled greenhouse this figure increases to about 25-30 yields per year. In Growing Underground’s Facility they can experience upto 60 yields per year, unaffected by seasonal changes, weather conditions and being grown in a pesticide free environment.

    • Tour Guide Extraordinaire
    • Leaving the packing area

    Once pollination has commenced the seeds are moved to the farming area where they continue their growth under pink low energy LED lights. The seeds are all grown together – about twenty different varieties- in vertical stacked trays other than two allergens which are grown and kept separate. There are a variety of colours displayed all along the shelves with red mustard, red cabbage and some being grown and supplied with their seeds attached. These include Coriander and their punchy garlic chives which add a little texture to the end product.

    Fetching shade of Pink…..

    We were then given the chance to taste the product – Including Wasabi Mustard, Broccoli shoots and Garlic Chives. We were warned that the taste is strong and to be careful if we ordinarily find the taste of mustard strong. This proved to absolutely spot on as the taste was highly concentrated. I had been concerned that the taste profile would not be as good as a product grown in conventional soil – how wrong I was. These leaves were packed with flavour and were better than I had tried or purchased elsewhere.

    • Garlic Chives with seed
    • Pink stem radish

    The leaves are watered daily according to each trays individual requirement but the hydroponic system uses 70% less water than open field farming. They are also working towards carbon neutral certification and ensuring all the substraits are recycled to improve efficiency.

    We were left to roam up and down the the racks to photograph and survey all the produce at varying growth times before being given free punnets of their Italian and Asian mixed leaves. Then it was back up to the ground – most took the lift, but I decided to walk up the stairs. Beware it’s a lot harder coming back up !

    • This is how to do Ventilation!

    This tour provided a fascinating insight as to how this produce can be grown far more efficiently in a controlled underground environment, and is a great example of how farming is being modified to cater for a demanding and increasing population. Similar systems are already being used in other countries with the Chinese Government already investing in indoor vertical farms to feed its 1.4Billion people, and overcome problems such as smog,drought,water rationing and polluted soil. Aerponic farming with roots dangling in the air in indoor farms fed by nutrient mist has increased by 60% in the US over the past decade. Like Growing Underground, Aerofarms are growing greens under Computer controlled LED lights in climate controlled warehouses in vertical stacked steel towers in New York. Small indoor units are being developed for domestic use.

    Growing Underground has itself already sought investment on the market on three occasions to help its expansion and development, and there are 7 more tunnels to fill and potential global expansion on the cards.

    So will “the boys (and girls) all be singing and shouting for tomorrow” ? Let’s hope that with advances in farming like those described above, and with what I have experienced 33 metres under your feet in Clapham, then we will be able to feed our growing global population for longer than current predictions, and at the same time we will be protecting our planet rather than decimating it.

    Visit Going Underground through the website or the Eventim App.

    1a Carpenters Place, Clapham, London. sW4 7TD

    Filed Under: LATEST NEWS

    Fine Bar – A relationship finally Consummated !

    March 9, 2019 by admin

    Barrafina – Finally cracked the Enigma !

    Amazing – is it not – that I have never made it to Barrafina ? Even more incredible when you appreciate there are three of them to choose from, or more correctly there were, as there are now four locations spread around London to chance your unreserved arm at blagging a table.

    It is not for want of trying. More than once I have attempted to eat in Barrafina in SoHo – usually latish, after a show, and failed miserably due to their no reservations policy and general popularity, and I guess in part due to my lack of patience. If hungry why wait for an unspecified time when there are so many agreeable alternatives within two or three minutes walking distance ? Indeed the last time I made the effort to grab a table at the Soho branch I met with chaos – a melee of people blocking the doorway and apparently nobody from the restaurant organising the mess. “Sod this for a game of soldiers” I thought, and pranced off elsewhere – yet again.

    It’s a date I want to meet but so far the stars have just aligned, even though I am pretty confident that it will be love at first sight, if and when we meet. I may even be bold enough to suggest that things could go so well on the first date that it could lead to something bigger and better between us. However to date our relationship is far from being consummated.

    So you can imagine my delight when I read that a brand spanking new Barrafina would be setting up in Coaldrop Yards at the new Uber Trendy spot at the back of a Kings Cross. Whilst it would also continue the no reservations policy it would be the largest restaurant to date, and, hence – in my mind- the ideal opportunity to finally meet with the elusive enigma that is Barrafina.

    Taking no chances, and ensuring that my mission on this occasion would not turn out to be Mission Impossible, I set off for a date with destiny on a cold and grey Thursday morning arriving at 12.15, fifteen minutes after opening. I needn’t have worried – other than a couple of Asian tourists occupying a few of the bar stools the space was empty ! A Barrafina all to my self !

    The restaurant itself, in keeping with the whole Coaldrop Yards complex, is all exposed brickwork, big glass frontage and a huge bar running the length of the restaurant where shiny red leather and chrome bar stools provide the counter service experience. If this is not your preferred way of dining, the alternative traditional table and chairs and also dotted around the space. There is the opportunity to dine outside, which I imagine will be popular in the coming Summer months, but nobody was brave enough to occupy these tables on this chilly London lunchtime.

    In viewing the menu the beauty of Barrafina is that it can appeal to somebody who wants the familiar Tapas experience – Padron Peppers/Pan Con Tomato/Classic Tortilla/ Patatas Bravas etc – or similarly appeal to the more adventurous Tapas eater – Moi. An extremely knowledgeable waitress showed me the tiniest blackboard of specials, and although somewhat small the board contained a dozen or so daily specials which were explained in detail one by one. This could be somewhat time consuming on a busy day but I was wallowing in the luxury of the sound of every dish. Wow – I wanted to try everything ! However I had already spotted some real attractions on the main menu and now I was gastronomicly conflicted ! I needed someone to support me – so much for venturing to restaurants alone – sure you get to choose what you want, but you are in Freddie Mercury territory – I want it all, I want it all, and I want it now !

    I gradually filtered my choices down to four dishes, the first of which was the most traditional dish I was prepared to opt in for – Croquettes, but not any old Croquettes, a Morcilla stuffed version. These breaded, happily, rather large spheres arrived bursting open with a satisfying crunch, and containing a decadent and rich sauce with lumps of morcilla combined with red peppers and all sorts of other loveliness. Great start.

    I had decided to choose one dish off the specials on the miniature board – in deference and appreciation to detailed explanations received – Razor Clams in a Coral Sauce. These plump, bulbous bi-valves arrived sitting on a pinkish dish of sauce which tasted like the sea with a splash of citrus cutting through the deep fishy depths. The thinnest of crisped breads sat aside the clams for a little crunch and texture, a scattering of chives, and my tastebuds were wowing to the ocean inspired coralline flavour.

    From the main menu I had chosen two of my favourite ingredients which could well be marmite to many other diners, but attract me for many reasons, one being that I would not ordinarily prepare them at home. First up were sweetbreads which arrived with Two Mojos ( sauces to you and me) and Papas Arrugas – £12.80). The sweetbreads were pan fried, slightly Caramelised retaining a soft texture and an almost nutty flavour. The two sauces were Green and a Red and both apparently originating from the Canary Islands.

    The “Rojo” being tomato based with garlic, paprika, parsley and various other spices. The “Verde” with Sping Onion,Avocado, Green Pepper,Coriander and a similar mix of spices. I favoured the green but both went down well with potatoes and sweetbreads.

    Now to what turned out to be my star dish. Red Prawns with Pig Trotters. On ordering this the waitress asked if I had eaten Pigs Trotters before and was I aware of the texture. I responded in the affirmative and this was the reason for choosing them.She explained some people ordered them and were surprised by the Jelly like texture and did not approve – what fools I thought !

    Anyway they arrived exactly how I had hoped and in a Tomato based sauce lifting the dish to even higher levels of satisfaction . I resorted to sucking on the Trotters and the Prawn Heads to make the most of them and had no issue with the exquisite mess I was making. On noticing the fun I was having I was promptly provided with a bowl of lemon water to cleanse my greedy little fingers. A wonderful earthy dish, with the gelatinous trotters combining well with the sweet Prawns. Recommended if you are not afraid of the texture and the mess – beware of your shirt/blouse etc !

    The food had been washed down with two glasses of sherry. The first a “special” of Manzanilla Pasada en Rama – “En Rama” meaning unfiltered and drinking almost directly from the cask which helps preserve the richness and flavour (£7.50) a glass. Dry and nutty. To compare I followed up with a Amontillado – Valdespino, aged 15 years and a little darker and even nuttier to my fancy. Enjoyed both and could really get into the habit of a nice dry sherry to kick off lunch.

    Desserts were declined this time round, as I had already conquered a number of dishes alone and definitely need reinforcements next time round. Barrafina apparently literally translates to “Fine Bar” and I can certainly confirm it is more than fine and certainly more than a Bar. My experience of my first date with Barrafina was as good as anticipated, and I think we may well go on a second date very soon to consummate – what I thought – was the perfect first date. I hope Barrafina feels the same about me ! It’s just a shame it’s taken such a long time coming !

    Rating – Food 4/5 – Very Hot Pan

    Service 4/5 but 5/5 for the measured and knowledgable explanation of every dish from my waitress.

    Barrafina – Beagley Walk, Coaldrop Yard, Kings Cross.

    Barrafina.co.uk

    Filed Under: LATEST NEWS Tagged With: Restaurant review

    Farzi Cafe – Luvly Jubly!

    February 24, 2019 by admin

    Farzi Cafe, Haymarket – Luvly Jubly !

    It is a bit of a further journey from India to the West End than from Peckham to the West End, but for the next twelve weeks Farzi Cafe and Only Fools and Horses the Musical will be unlikely neighbours in Haymarket – Cushty ! Farzi Cafe is the first UK outpost of Indian restauranter and Masterchef India Judge Mr. Zorowar Kalra.

    Having spotted the restaurant next door to the Theatre and due to see a performance on the Friday night, it seemed the perfect opportunity to try something new and explore the rumoured £4Million that Mr. Kalra had invested in the spot.

    Farzi apparently means “Fake” in Urdu, and Zorowar explains that this word is used to explain its post molecular and post modern techniques applied to the dishes, resulting in food that looks like one thing but is in fact something entirely different.

    First impressions are important and here the welcome is friendly with two well dressed receptionists taking coats and guiding us to the table. The restaurant is sleek looking with lots of gold in evidence, and incorporating boothes for four/five people down one side of the dining space facing a long impressive bar showing off every type of whiskey you can imagine – and more. Eating so early at 5.30 Pre – Theatre can be a lonely and quiet affair but the restaurant is already quite busy with lots of families in evidence (small children too) and it is very much a multi cultural environment.

    The Menu. It is long. It contains many odditities, and a few more familiar plates. Some dishes sound recognisable, but the addition in small print accompanying the dishes lead you onto an unchartered path of flavours. There are several headings – Nano Plates ( presumably smaller than Small Plates, Small Plates ( presumably larger than Nano plates), Pao and Sliders, Roasts and Grills, Farzified English Classics, Mains,Biryanis and Sides. It all appears reasonably priced on the face of it, with most Small Plates coming in at between £6 and £10 ( one exception being the Lamb Chops at £14) , and mains ranging from £8 to the most expensive at £22 being a Lobster and Mussel Moilee.

    We decide to steer clear of the fusion style British Classics – which includes a Halibut Fish and Chips with Chukki Pea Mash ( wouldn’t be seen dead in Peckham) , or a Masala Wagyu Cottage Pie with Purple Potato Mash, and leave these for another (potential) visit.

    We are being served by Mark from Poland who I doubt has ever set foot in India but is being charming and efficient and recommending a way to navigate through the menu. From the Nano Plates we opt for Flamed Padron Peppers aloo chokha and they arrive quickly, plump, salty and indeed charred with radishes, pea shoots and an unknown sauce, which we assume is the Chokha. There are 8 for £5 and taste good if not revelatory.

    A Tuna Ceviche arrives with a scattering of pink peppers and three little mounds of puffed rice and other wierd and wonderful stuff, but all actually rather good. The Tuna being zingy and fresh, with the rice giving texture and crunch. Our favourite Small Plate is the Pan Tossed Shrooms with Black truffle haze. We did not know how this would appear and whilst Mark did his best to respond to our enquiries, his explanation really just repeated our best guess as to what we would be delivered. What arrived was a generously filled bowl of creamy coconut orange (almost soup like) concoction filled with various Mushroom varieties and tasted really rather fabulous – Pas De Calais !

    The final Small Plate involved three large Madras Pepper Prawns curling in on themselves and served with aerated thayir sadam- whoever and whatever that is. What we understood were some Yoghurt like Cream blobs to accompany each prawn which cooled down each forkful in a pleasant enough manner.

    As a note here we had asked Mark for a portion of Naga Pork and he actually countered against it as it represented their spiciest starter. We choose to forego it and we’re rather glad as the Small Plates were not so small, and we had a lot more to follow. Beware of the portion sizes here !

    So far all meals had arrived in quick succession and there was an appropriate, but not too long a gap, before the Mains arrived.

    Wagyu Seekh Kebab

    Wagyu Seekh Kebab with a Kachumber Salad was succulent and also generous for £15 ( whether or not it was using Wagyu was difficult to tell ) but it was well spiced and moorish. Presentation not as impressive as what had come before, but what can you do with a kebab ?

    Tandoori Goat Shoulder with Kamiri Kulcha had been sliced up, and had just the right amount of fat clinging to it to make it the best part of the overall meal. Tender, Smokey and just the right amount of burnt edges to render it perfect and be voted by all three of us as the outstanding dish. Chateau Neuf De Pape – Impressive !

    The final Main was a Grainy Mustard Salmon Tikka – light and bouncy, not too spicey, accompanied by a mint cream, all hidden under an edible net of something or other.

    The sides were ok. One portion of steamed rice – again a large portion to easily feed three, a Dhal which was sloppy and not as good as Dishooms. A Warer Chesnut and Bell Pepper Raita which was not to my liking. However all excellent value at £3 each bearing in mind you are in Piccadilly.

    We had no time for desserts this time round, but already my two dining mates C and D are planning a return trip during the forthcoming week so they may be able to road test them next time round. D also made the remark her Mother would love it at Farzi Cafe, and there is the attraction. Good Value, High Quality ( even if you do not know what you are letting yourself in for dish by dish), and excellent efficient service. In this particular area of the West End there are many competing restaurants, but so many are over priced for what they are offering. The likes of Gymkhana or Indian Accent may provide more of a Fine Dining Indian experience, but for something more in the style of a fancy Indian Bistro with a twist, Farzi Cafe was a hit – in Trotter parlance “Creme De la Menthe”!

    Farzi Cafe – Food Very Hot Pan 4/5

    Service. Blazingly Hot Pot 5/5 ( Thanks Mark)

    8 Haymarket, London. SW1Y 4BP – 020 3981 0090

    Farzilondon.com

    Filed Under: LATEST NEWS

    Cora Pearl – Ham and Cheese Toastie + Chips to go please !

    February 17, 2019 by admin

    Cora Pearl – Ham and Cheese Toastie + Chips to go please !

    Cora Pearl and Kitty Fisher sound like the names of young ladies that Prince, in his heyday, ( god rest his soul) , would have invited into another of his all girl backing line ups, and they would have played like demons and looked like goddesses. In reality they both have a fascinating and debauched back story, but sadly their history goes back well before we were all partying like it was 1999.

    Cora was a Courtesan in the nineteenth century who started her career as a prostitute in Covent Garden and ended up Queen of Parisien nightlife by 1860. Kitty was infamous in Shepherds Market plying her trade one hundred years before Cora, and was said to be one of the first celebrities famous for being famous. How she would feel at home in today’s Instagram fuelled artificial social network of a world we now live in.

    Cora came after Kitty, and it is the same order and location that we now see Chef George Barson overseeing the groups second restaurant located in Henrietta Street – a stones throw away from the heart of London’s Theatreland.

    The space itself is small and relatively cramped ( not unlike Kitty’s), with polished wood tables and floor, an uneven set up to tables and chairs, and little velvet like cushions covering the rickety wooden chairs to add a little comfort. We are welcomed within one step of entering by a more senior gentleman then you would have come to usually expect in restaurants of late ( no visible tattoos) but reassuringly friendly and at ease. It is early on a Friday – Five thirty on 15th of February – as I have defiantly, and deliberately, reserved a table the day after Valentines to avoid the cliched, forced atmosphere, and awful meal of a romantic dinner date. We are Pre theatre, and it appears that many other diners are simarlarly positioned as the restaurant fills up to almost capacity within fifteen minutes of arriving.

    Service is, however, brisk. When advising our friendly Gentleman that we have decided on our food, he replies that he will immediately get someone over to take our order – returning in 10 seconds with the riposte “ That someone appears to be me”. The menu is in my mind, perfect in length. Eight starters to choose from, followed by five main courses, three sides, four desserts and a cheese. If what you are offering is so on point this number of dishes is more than enough – how I hate being presented with a menu – or indeed multiple menus – that appear to cover dishes from across the globe in anticipation that their kitchen can rustle up any one of thirty or so dishes to an adequate and edible quality. Impossible. Don’t do it.

    Within minutes of ordering the first two dishes are in front of us. Two little bricks of Brown Shrimps “Ranhofer” – a kind of prawn cocktail on toast dusted with cayenne pepper. ( On enquiring As to who or what is a Ranhofer, he was apparently some kind of Chef too, but will need to google that later). To eat with hands or with cutlery ? I go for the more primitive option recalling that I have read on more than one occasion that eating without utensils increases the enjoyment. They are reminiscent of the sea, but also earthy and salty and unfortunately gone in two messy bites.

    The other sharing dish is one of a silky white globe of Burrata smothered in a vibrant green “pesto” like sauce but walnut based, wearing a straw hat of – I think – delicately fried Roscoffe onions. It is a Burrata that has everything you want and expect from it, and livened up with the nutty pesto and crunch of the onions. Mrs. W expresses big satisfaction with the start of the meal. I had insisted that we also order the ham and cheese toasties, aware that they have already become a stable of this menu. We are rewarded with three fingers of the lightest, buttery, crustless pillows of bread,cheese and ham that you can ever imagine. Of course this is not your average cheddar and processed ham breville concoction. It is Montgomery Cheese and Pig Jowl, accompanied by a little side jug of Mr. Barsons own take on Branston pickle ( if I am not mistaken also containing walnuts?) . I also greedily and messily eat these with my hands – this could catch on ! Who would have thought to put such a common everyday dish on the menu of a restaurant like this ?

    Moving away from the sharing concept the two main dishes ordered are the Fish Stew and the Veal. Fish Stew is as unlike my own home version as is possible. Whereas mine is as busy as Oxford Street during the last week of Xmas shopping, Cora’s Stew is the Tate Modern early on a Monday morning during a hot Summers day – rather glorious, but also rather empty.

    This is not meant as a criticism – it is a glossy, all the rage in the 70’s, bright tangerine pond, wherein there are lightly charred tranches of different fish sitting alongside a few bulbous mussels all looking almost too good to disturb. On a separate plate you have two generous, should I say, giant croutons of grated cheeese ready for a bath with friends. Mrs W comments it has a incredible fishy depth of flavour and is deceptively filing.

      For my part I am tucking into a Fillet of Veal cut into three glossy, perfectly cooked, pink chunks. There is Celeriac Purée on the side, and a separate jug of historical- meaning it should go down in history – bordelaise sauce containing, to my absolute delight, several blobs of Marrow to smoother the Veal in.

      On the side we have one healthy option and one, presumably, not so. A fantastically charred and blackened half head of broccoli ( Hispi is so passé these days) covered in a buttery almond sauce. Note to self – must attempt to barbecue Broccoli this summer and see how it comes out !

      Now a drum roll please Ladies and Gentleman ………. Chips ! So much has been said about a product that almost every restaurant serves on their menu that it is difficult to add comment. Indeed Giles Coren called Cora’s Chips “Dish of the Century” and Cora are using his quote on their website homepage to advertise their star quality. Micheal Deacon from the Telegraph commented that “ you should be able to order a whole bath of them”. So what can I add ? I will say just go there and try them, and if you don’t want a dessert you could attempt to just take your table and order the Ham and Cheese Toastie with Chips. It would set you back only £12.50 and you would be having one of the best meals of your life. I don’t know how the restaurant will react to hordes of Diners taking up this recommendation, so I apologise in advance if this suggestion becomes a “THING”. Sorry George.

      For those of you actually interested in the science of the Chips, apparently they are prepared by slicing down raw potatoes, as if making a dauphinois, put into a dish with thyme, butter and salt , pressed overnight in the fridge, then cut into chips and deep fried. Majestic.

      Desserts could only be of passing interest after the dishes that had gone before, and as in many restaurants the descriptors on the menu of the dishes provide little clue as to how they are prepared. We plump for milk and cookies and are delightfully surprised with what we end up with. An enormous globe dusted in chocolate and tasting of milk infused frothy egg whites, sitting atop broken up cookie biscuits surrounded by a chocolate purée and all enveloping a centre of milk ice cream. Very moorish and enticing me to try out other sweet things on a revisit. Blood Orange and Earl Grey Ice Cream Dodger anybody ?

      Cora Pearl served up an outstanding meal without being over complicated, and entertained us without foams and fermentation’s and other on trend preparations that seem to be pervading so many Dining Rooms at present. This is proper cooking, just as the original Chef of Kitty Fishers – Thomas Parry – is producing now at Brat in Shoreditch.

      Apparently Cora Pearl used to present herself at Dinner Parties on a huge silver platter with Parsley covering her modesty – I don’t know if Chef Barson would ever wish to go down this route himself should times get hard, but I cannot see that his cooking will ever disappoint to the level of employing this gimmick to attract Diners to his restaurant !

      Cora Pearl – Food – Blazingly Hot Pan 5/5

      Service – 5/5

      Cora Pearl, 30 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, WC2E 8NA.

      corapearl.co.uk

      Filed Under: LATEST NEWS

      Falling off the Wagon into Verjus !

      January 26, 2019 by admin

      Be careful – other than the above sign it’s down an unmarked narrow Alley.

      Falling off the Wagon into Verjus !

      I am in Paris for a few days, meeting up with my daughter to have some quality time together, and to attend a Snow Patrol concert together – the band being my daughters favourites for many, many, years.

      After delays for both of us due to snow hitting Paris the day of our arrival, all plans are slightly rescheduled and we are having a pit stop before dinner at the Bar and – I would never have predicted this – but my first drink of 2019 is a Paul Ricard with water – How Very French. Tastes good and warming, on a very chilly Paris night.

      We have one night free before the Gig, so of course I wanted to visit a Cool Paris restaurant. I am not a regular visitor here, so what is regarded as trendy now in Paris escapes me, but I narrow down the possibilities and increase my opportunities of visiting a good establishment by referring to the web based Food Reviewer “Infatuation” – notwithstanding they had rejected my application to become their new London based staff Food writer during the past week. I hold no grudges !

      One of their top rated recommendations was a restaurant in the 11th Arondisiment named Verjus. I appreciated they would only have a tasting menu available, but looking at what they were offering at a price of EU79 it appeared unusual and good value. A little more research and I established that the Chef was self taught Braden Perkins who travels the world experiencing various cuisines before reinterpreting and personalising them for his restaurant. His partner is Laura Adrian who curates a pairing wine list which focuses on organic and biodynamic wines. Braden and and Laura used to run an internet based Hidden Supper club from their own apartment before moving to this permenant establishment some 7 or so years ago. They are both US citizens, so I supposed you could call them the original Americans in Paris taking on local gastronomy and chefs of high French Cuisine.

      Arrival at Verjus

      After walking straight past the restaurant using google maps – beware it is off the main road and down a narrow alley – then the welcome was friendly and the decor would not have been out of place in Shoreditch. Wooden tables, very relaxed and shabby chic feel to it, and we were offered a circular table in the corner, which in my view was probably the pick of the tables. The menu appeared which also offered the aforementioned wine pairing option at EU55 which we opted for on the basis my daughter had not tried this before.

      The first course consisted of an assortment of canapés that all arrived together and represented a table of food that I did not recognise from any other restaurants visited recently.

      Clentine Egg Yolks

      First up were 2 eggshells containing a very slightly warmed egg yolk combined with chives and mandarin. You basically carefully scooped out the yolk from the fragile eggshells and then just savoured a citrusy infused egg yolk. Delicate, fruity and moorish. I wonder if bread soldiers would have worked more than a dainty spoon ? Great start. Then Chickpea Socca crunchy Tacos filled with fragrant fresh herbs.

      The strong flavour of the dill and mint awoke your tastebuds so that they were dancing around awaiting the next course, which were purple carrots and blood orange on little wooden skewers. It had the colour of beetroot, and the appearance of meat, but when tasted you discovered were sweet and earthy carrots with again a citrus kick. They were presented with buckwheat and sunflower biscuits which provided the contrast in texture.

      Purple Carrot and Blood Orange

      The final part of the quad of starters was a large disc of paper thin golden coloured sliced potatoes sitting atop some dots of horseradish cream. You could basically break off shards of the cremated smokey potato’s and dip them into the modestly spiced Horseradish before they melted into your mouth. It reminded me of a jacket potato prepared on Bonfire night – smokey burnt umami taste, and not something experienced in this form before. A fantastic offering of snacks which would be appreciated by anybody who enjoys new flavours.

      Potatoes and Horseradish

      Our next course was headed up Scallop, Watercress and Marrow. It arrived with a small layer of raw scallops at the bottom of a shallow dish over which a veloute of Watercress was poured which very slightly cooked the scallops before you the polished it off far too quickly. There were crunchy little bread croutons to provide some texture and the Marrow must have been hidden in there somewhere to, but the overwhelming taste was of the silky scallops against the Watercress.

      Back to Black

      What appeared next resembled a black oil slick on a plate which was not what I was expecting when I read the ingredients of the dish – Celeriac, Chestnuts and a Truffle. The Celeriac had been roasted and cut into a circle with the centre stuffed with a type of mushroom pate studded with big bold chesnuts.

      It was black as it was smothered in a charcoal and truffle cream. On the plate it did not look appetising – question mark over presentation – but all fears were gone when you tasted the dish. Celeriac always teters on the brink of love and hate with me, but this time it just about crossed over to the Love cabin, helped by the contrasting tastes of the powerful chesnuts and earthy mushrooms.

      The remaining savoury course was Duck served with a huge bowl of (just about) dressed Radicchio on the side, together with an unusual, but beautifully presented beetroot and apple Tarte Tatin. To complete the meal a bowl of new potatoes smothered in a potato cream. The duck itself was an indelicate hunk of breast sitting on a sauce of blood red beetroot sauce which in turn had a white beetroot purée on the side. Whilst being a die hard beetroot hater this dish came together spectacularly well and the Tarte Tatin was a revelation.

      Duck / Beetroot

      Beautiful Beetroot/ Apple Tarte Tatin

      A quick note on the Wine, very well chosen, and complimenting each course but a special word for the Pierre Goigoux IGP Puy De Dome, Damascus Noir 2015, a blend of Syrah and a grape variety almost extinct due to phylloxera, and the Great War called Black Damas ( a Syrah variety) , and researched and brought back to life over the past 15 years by Pierre Goignoux who was fascinated by the grape. His vineyard is apparently now unique in the Workd being the ink producer of this grape variety. A lovely delicate red with black fruit and a volcanic minerality.

      To desserts – the first of two was a classic from Brittany, a “Far Breton” which is basically eggs, cream and prunes made into a type of flan. Rich and yet light – no complaints here. To finish we had something which could have been served for breakfast or dessert – a Carrot, Yoghurt concoction topped with Clementine Granita. Refreshing, and brought us full circle to the first egg yolk dish also infused with Clementine. I don’t know if this was deliberate but it worked for me.

      Far Breton from Brittany

      Downstairs in the restaurant was a tiny and very trendy looking wine bar which had its own entrance in a different street to the restaurant. Apparently they do good sandwiches at lunch.

      We really enjoyed Verjus – it was unstuffy, the service was excellent with a little story being provided for each of the wines, and the food all hit the spot in a very un French way. But maybe I am just not familiar with the current Food scene in Paris. Whatever, it is a far cry from the establishments still insisting on suits and ties to be worn in the evenings – a la Tour D’ Argent with its famous name but crazily priced menus.

      Our next venue after our lovely evening at Verjus was a Blues Club called Cafe Utopia. This is where I really fell off the Wagon, and got back to the Hotel at 4am after being poured into an Uber by the Singers Wife – but that’s a whole different story……..

      Rating – VeryHotpan – 4/ 5 , great value but maybe a little more attention to some indelicate presentation ?

      Service 5/5 – Could not be faulted

      Verjus– 52 Rue De Richelieu, 75001, Paris.

      +33 (0) 1 42975440

      Verjusparis.com

      Filed Under: LATEST NEWS

      Mr 100% – That’s Tom Kerridge

      January 19, 2019 by admin

      Tom Kerridge, whilst at Wednesday nights Times+ event commented that if he worked in The News building at 1 London Bridge – where this interview was taking place on the 17th floor – he would not be able to do anything all day other than just admire the view out of the window. Well it’s a good job he is not based there, as he has rather a few tasks on his plate at present, and staring out of the window all day is not one one of them.

      This evening was clearly scheduled as a tie in to Toms new book “Fresh Start” and his new TV Series, but it is also another rather exclusive event organised by The Times for members of its Times+ Club. I have attended other evenings involving interviews with Lou Reed, Suede , an Oscars Prediction Night etc and these are well organised and curated events which differentiates the Newspaper from its peers. This evening was hosted by Lisa Markwell the Tines Food Editor, and alumni of Leiths School of Food and Wine.

      The evening only lasted some 90 minutes (plus a book signing opportunity to close ), and was structured in the way of questions from Lisa for the first hour, and then a Q & A from the floor for the last 30 minutes.

      What did we learn from Tom during this evening ? Well, other than his well documented change in lifestyle and dramatic weight loss over the past few years, the quote that me chuckle the most was that Tom is almost never Star struck ( David Beckham and family were refused their request for a table when they made contact with the Hand and Flowers on the day when they were seeking a reservation for that same evening), but who he was most in awe of when they did make a visit, was Nancy Cartwright. Most, if not all of the audience, scratched their heads when this name was mentioned. Tom quickly followed up with – she is the voice of Bart Simpson, and luckily one of his kitchen staff recognised her voice when she arrived or she would have passed incognito at the restaurant. That’s who Tom recalls with most reverence at his 2 Star “Pub”. He did also mention George Clooney had eaten there, alone, and in the corner, and had requested no special attention, phones,selfies etc. He had Fish and a Chips and nobody noticed he was there !

      One of the issues Lisa was curious about was how Tom managed his time and be in attendance and visible at all of his 3 restaurant locations. In response Tom explained that 4/5 times a week he is in the kitchen in the evening at his Bar and a Grill at the Corinthian Hotel, but after Service he travels back to Marlow along the M4 to be ready for the breakfast and lunch service at The Hand and Flowers. It could of course give people the impression that he must have been cooking the previous evening if he was appearing at breakfast, but Tom commented he would always be honest (100%) and apologise for not being present the previous evening if taken to task on this. He praised his long serving and loyal staff for him being able to work in this way, and he has complete trust in them to produce the quality of product whilst he is not present. He of course could take the easy way out and take a room in the Corinthian after service in London, but prefers to be home and ready early at Marlow the next morning.

      Regarding the current TV programme, Lisa said she was dying to know if the kitchen in the programme was actually his. Not his, he replied emphatically, but it was a posh house was’nt it ! Anyway the fridge was not big enough, and the door did not close very well. On a more serious note, he was conscious to draw a line between his real home life and the make believe of TV Land, and wished to maintain a distinct separation between them. In any event we did not want to see him tip-toeing down the stairs in his nightie a la Nigella – did we !?

      Regards his new book he wished to ensure people did not regard it as a “dietary” tome, but rather a collection of recipes that were not too “Cheffy” and people should be able to cook at home without stressing over the ingredients and method too much. Obviously Ottolenghi has produced a similar book to counter the arguements his recipes are usually too complex and/or involve far too many ingredients. Tom explained that programmes like Masterchef are good in their own context, but that we should remember that the contestants are very much cooking for themselves, and too impress judges- hence the use of Sous Vide, productions of gels/foams etc – not the sort of thing most people will do after arriving home from work and wanting a tasty and fresh bite to eat. This latest collection of recipes are meant to to be very accessible, and to encourage people to cook again, not to be scared off by what they see on TV. Of course there are some lighter meals involved, but also traditional dishes wherein he is providing tips to lift them from the ordinary to the next level. A good example of this he chose to highlight – namely browning mince in an oven until it goes dark and crumbly – when making a Spag Bowl or a Shepherds Pie. This Caramelised the mince and introduces the Umumi kick, whilst at the same time draining of fat. This compares to the grey sludge most people would normally produce when adding the mince to their onion and garlic in a pan, and he says will shock you with the difference in taste it gives.

      An amusing little side story he also told was how he originally mis- led his Bank to establish a loan for the refit and opening of The Hand and Flowers in Marlow. He knew that as a young man trying to get a business loan for opening a restaurant back then would be impossible, so he approached the bank on the basis of money (£50,000) for an extension to his house, which on this basis was approved. Of course later on the bank established the truth, but by then it was too late and the bank were in for a penny and in for a pound.

      During the Q &A session I was able to pose my own question which was “ It is well documented that you have changed your lifestyle quite drastically, but if you could time travel back to your 24 year old self, what would you have done differently, and what advice would you give yourself ?”


      Tom gave up his time to sign books and pose for selfies after the event, and had a word for everyone. After signing my book, I asked if his recipe for his infamous Glazed Lobster Thermidor Omelet was in the book. Unfortunately not he replied – guess it’s a bit too cheffy !

      Toms answer was a pleasure to hear “ 100% would not have changed a thing. What I have done in my life is what makes me who I am today and I would do it all again.” He added rather cheekily “ I have had some amazing nights when I have been drinking. My PR people here might suggest I should have done things differently but 100% I would not”

      Overall Tom came across as a very humble, warm, genuine and erudite human being whom I greatly warmed too throughout the evening. Tom used the phrase 100% a lot during the evening to emphasis certainty on the way he feels or stands on issues – I am even more a fan 100% after this enjoyable evening.

      Filed Under: LATEST NEWS

      The Adventures of ”Superdryman”experiencing his first Dry January.

      January 15, 2019 by admin

      • Achtung – Ein, Zwei Zero ! No alcohol Riesling from Waitrose !

      THE ADVENTURES OF “SUPERDRYMAN” EXPERIENCING HIS FIRST DRY JANUARY

      Should it be concerning that when I mention to Friends and Family that I am doing Dry January for the first time their response is either one of shock and awe, or one of hysterical laughter ? Is my reputation and relationship with alcohol such that there is disbelief that I can go 31 days sans alcohol ?

      Well it is day 15 – and mid day – which my reckoning is exactly half way to my goal. So far so good. But why did I decide to undertake this daunting task ?

      There was no plan involved, it all started as a practical economical response to what I was faced with on my New Years holiday in Mauritius. Like most people ( or so I believe) I like a drink on holiday, but then again I like a drink on any day ending with a “y”. But first day, first beachside lunch, I am reading the resort menu and doing my utmost to translate Mauritian Rupees into good old dependable Pre – Brexit UK sterling. I must be pressing the wrong buttons on my phone as the cheapest wine I can find on the wine list works out to £65. That’s for an uninspiring South African White something or other. Maybe as it’s lunch and very humid let’s try a local beer. Gaseous Gnats Piss ( not even a pint) works out to £6.25 ! I don’t even like Lager. Ok they produce Rum here, that should be cheaper. Nope, £6 a shot for the cheapest. So, methinks – quickly – and work out that over 9 days I can save about £500-600 by not having wine/beer for our party of 4. Indeed I have excelled in my alcoholic intake during December to the extent that on an aggregate basis I have probably imbibed enough to cover at least the first quarter of 2019 during a crazy few weeks in December. Decision taken. This is going to be a healthy/detox (cheaper) vacation.

      There we have it. The genesis of a Dry January. 9 days bumming around on the Beach was not difficult, the challenge would commence upon my return. I had scoured my calendar to look at potential dates that could possibly bring me down, and the first few days back already contained 2 precarious events.

      Returning on a Wednesday evening I had scheduled a Friday night dinner with Friends – albeit hosted at the home of a non drinking Wannabee Chef- (Auggie) – Saturday night – Bowie Celebration Gig – Shephards Bush Empire. Hmmmm! Usually both of these evenings would involve a fair share of alcoholic beverages. I texted my friend Auggie to determine the timing of dinner and announced to all on our WhatsApp group that I was undertaking the Dry Jan challenge. What an encouraging response I received ! Auggie’s partner was also partaking in an alcohol free month, and another friend immediately announced the same. 4 out of 5 at the Dinner would not be partaking in alcohol- that would make the evening run smoothly. Or ? Smoothly, is that the right phrase !? I cannot recall the last time I attended a dinner party and did not drink. This will be an experience. And what do you take to the hosts house when you understand almost everybody is alcohol free ? Certainly not a Keg of Double Diamond. Not even Egg Nog.

      I could not really foresee hours of conversation with only water at hand, so there must be something else that non drinkers luxuriate in ?( Barring Coke/Sprite etc ) I had tried my favourite Brewers Brewdog’s Alcohol Free offering – the cleverly named Nanny State – so this could be one option. Then I thought about alcohol free wine – not low alcohol but free from alcohol. As luck would have it there was an article in The Times about wine to drink during Dry January and they recommended a Riesling that Waitrose was selling at £6.99 by the wonderful name of Ein, Zwei Zero. Apparently it is made and fermented in the traditional way but then has all of alcohol vacuumed out. Ordinarily a preposterous idea, but apt for my current predicament.

      Nanny State – my least Favourite Brewdog Beer !

      So I attended the dinner party with a box of Nanny State ( later realising it is 0.5% ABV and feeling guilty about it) and a bottle of alcohol free wine, and it all went very well. The wine Was very popular, very citrusy, fresh and not unpleasant. In fact so not unpleasant I was asked why I had not brought along more bottles ! Maybe it’s psychological, but seeing a wine bottle and drinking from it using a wine glass helped me feel a little at home, even though clearly the taste was more of a fruity grape juice than of alcohol itself.

      Home at midnight, totally conscious, and waking up in the morning with a clear recollection of everything said and everything I ate – quite liberating ! Of course there are times when both the food and conversation are more wisely and thankfully forgotten, and other times when all is a blur whereas you actually would prefer to remember the night. But at least this morning I could lay in bed upon waking and not have to worry if I had a) lost my phone, b) lost my wallet c) lost coat/scarf, d) scroll through phone upon locating it to check what time you called an Uber and where from, e) check how many phone calls made/received. Oh, my god 8 missed calls from the wife, a call I returned at 11.52 for 14 minutes and I do not even remember making the call…….will need to tread carefully about that , and Wow , all of that behind me ( for one night at least). I lie in bed with a smug grin.

      Next challenge – Saturdays gig. But wonder upon wonders, another friend attending said concert is also doing Dry Jan ( yes of course we will support each other ) , and other 2 friends say that they will also abstain. This is getting easy ! Enjoyed the gig with just one pint of Pepsi Zero in hand. Probably a glass of red wine would have been healthier, but I am still on course.

      Monday back to the office. Tell all that I am not visiting the pub at lunch or after work. Most colleagues fall of chairs, but now I am on a roll and feeling like Superman !

      I have agreed to one exception. I am going to Paris for 2 nights to meet my daughter, and it will be the first time we have spent time together one on one without her son/my grandchild around since he was born 15 months ago. As she lives in a France we rarely see each other and we are catching up using a Snow Patrol concert in a Paris as our meeting point. My daughter has begged me to join her in a few drinks as she will not be able to relax and will feel guilty drinking alone. So I am doing Dry January in what I call “ Alex Style”. My French friend Alex did Dry January last year but he said it only applied whilst he was in the UK. When he travelled back to France at weekends etc he was drinking. I love that plan ! So my Dry January is Alex style, and I will have 2 nights off to ease the pain. Maybe I will need to go a few days into February Dry to make up for it, but in my own mind I think that’s acceptable. So 15 days with a small break to go.

      I am Superman ! Or maybe more accurately Superdryman !

      Filed Under: LATEST NEWS

      Core Blimey ! As Good as it gets !

      December 2, 2018 by admin

      Core by Clare Smyth – Kensington Park Road. Core Blimey – As good as it gets !

      Rainy day but things are about to get better !

      Some months ago, towards the end of our final term at Leiths, we sounded out our Tutor Michael to try to determine which restaurant he would most like to visit. The intention was to purchase a gift voucher for him and his wife to visit a restaurant of his choice – our present to him for his patience and skill with our class over the 9 month period of tuition. He nominated Core as the one restaurant he had never visited but had the desire to. I am assuming he has managed to use this voucher by now, and hope he had a wonderful experience there. The restaurant had also been on my radar since opening in August 2017, and the fact that it was recently awarded 2 Michelin stars had further peaked my interest, albeit this accolade had not made it easy to book, requiring an advance reservation of some 6 weeks ahead.

      Clare Smyth is well known to anybody who has a passing interest in restaurants. She is the only female chef to have headed up a 3 star Michelin restaurant in the UK, being the Chef Patron at Ramsey’s Hospital Road, before her own debut restaurant here. She appears to have stolen other members of staff from her previous establishment too, judging by the bio’s of her team on the Core website. She was recently voted best Michelin Female chef 2017 – not bad for someone born on a farm  in County Antrim , Northern Ireland.

      Upon arrival at the restaurant, and once your coats have been taken, you walk through a bar area , then turn right, and immediately on your left there is a large open kitchen situated behind a vast glass wall. Clare was there smiling away and greeted us as we walked through – nice touch. In fact all the staff smile at you upon arrival, in an almost knowing, respectful and modest way, welcoming you to their gastronomic Palace.

      The Room itself is bright and airy and has a calm and unstuffy feel about it. Diners were casually dressed, and you could immediately feel – whilst it is a Michelin started establishment – it did not feel pretentious in anyway.

      You have 3 options on the menu – and thank god no sharing plates ! There is the full on Tasting Menu with 8 courses at £ 115, or a “baby” Tasting Menu with 5 courses at £95, and a traditional A La Carte for you to pick and choose. I liked the idea of the small Tasting Menu as you are not always prepared for a long sitting and 8 courses, plus Amuse Bouche etc, so this is what we opted for.

      Although not advertised on the Small Menu we did receive 4 little snacks before our menu formally commenced, and strangely these had only been outlined on the Full Tasting Menu. They arrive in their own little gardens, gnarled pieces of wood, turf, flowers – it’s a real procession of beauty for the eyes, and we of course eat with eyes – No ? Well if initially we eat with eyes, thereafter our tastebuds must play some part in it, and here they go into overdrive.

      Cheese Ball anyone ?

      First up is a single delicate Cheese and Onion Gougere sitting on its own little pedestal, akin to being served a boiled egg, however this one has a little Mohican and contains a bechamal sauce, creamy,cheesy and leaving you wanting for me. However, don’t panic, there are many other beauties in the garden. Little slabs of jellied eel !? Really ? Nestling in separate dishes, surrounded by jelly, and themselves set into a Wooden bowl containing a Feng shui pebble garden, surrounded by other blobs of Jelly and greenery – toasted Seaweed if you must. Before being allowed to eat the eel, they are sprayed with malt vinegar emanating from a perfume bottle. Unsure if you like Jellied Eels? Me too, but this was taken up a notch and the aroma of vinegar added to the senses at work here. Sight, Smell, Taste.

      Jellied Eels making a comeback

      What else is in the garden ? Sitting atop their own turfed log were 2 little Foie Gras and Madeira tarts with a sliver of dried duck meat on top.

      Not every garden contains its own Foie Gras tartlets

      Gamey and luxuriant but oh so delicate too. Final part of the amuse bouche were also a playful treat for the eyes. At the end of 2 metal skewers sitting either side of a little forest of Thyme, sat a crispy smoked piece of duck wing, glistening and inviting, and having the benefit of being marinated (or smoked ) with burnt orange and spices.

      Duck lost in a forest of Thyme

      One bite and gone, but what flavours – I could have managed another dozen skewers of these bite sized little gems. Maybe some people will not like the Theatrical way of serving these bites, but I was pleasantly surprised by the beauty of everything presented, and it helps the restaurant to differentiate itself from its contemporaries.

      The various vessels used to serve and beautify our snacks are removed, and the table is ready now for the real serious business to begin. The first item on the small tasting menu is a dish already so iconic, I think it probably has its own Facebook and Instagram page. It is a nod to where Clare was brought up in Ireland, close to the sea, and therefore uses the most stable of all Irish ingredients, and representing the Land – The Potato. However sitting atop this potato is herring and trout roe to represent the sea, some fermented potato chips, sorrel giving it an added splash of colour, and then all sitting in a lake of Dulse Beurre Blanc – Seaweed, again remembering her childhood by the sea. It is an amazing looking dish and again once your eyes have finished taking it all in the taste blows you away. How can a potato be this good ? I am unsure how it is prepared, but it is smokey, reminiscent of a potato being pulled out a bonfire on Guy Fawkes night. The salty roe dances on your tongue, and the beurre Blanc ensuring you have acidity cutting through, and of course a sauce to avoid any chance of dryness, providing the perfect balance for the overall composition. My bread was used to mop up the last of the Beurre Blanc – I am not proud !  The dish is pretty and stunning, and half the restaurant appeared to be  photographing a Potato on their respective tables, ensuring its iconic status continues. What is the world coming too !?

      I am more a Famous than you are !

      The second dish is smallish section of golden, gently fried skate wing, upon which are artfully balanced various additions to complete the dish. Morecombe bay shrimps giving it some saltiness and powerful seaside flavour, nasturtium, and some stuffed Chard, which I think had some nutmeg and other small pieces of fish/Shrimps inside. All this in a rich sauce of brown butter. All very delicate, well seasoned, and came together perfectly, if not all a little brown in colour !

      Get your skates on !

      The third and final savoury dish is a sliver – albeit a large sliver – of irradescent pink Duck breast. Have not quite seen Duck served in such a cut, but again it was a feast for the eyes. It was served on a Madeira sauce, and it’s golden Skin was covered in little blobs of Thyme and Honey Jelly, together with Timut Pepper – an ingredient new to me. Apparently this originates from Nepal, and is related to Sichuan Pepper, and gives a similar tingle on the tongue, but also a hint of grapefruit. Coupled with it was a little pastry boat of duck confit hiding underneath a carapace of thinly sliced grapes. The two styles of prepared duck were a joy and the only complaint from Mrs.W was that the duck skin had not been rendered enough for her and was too fatty. I benefitted as she sliced it away and added it my plate – Bonus !

      I will take all the Duck Skin you can throw at me !

      Two sweets complete the Mini Tasting Menu. The first should, I guess, be up there with the Potato as the restaurants Iconic Dish, as it is simply named “Core Apple”. You are presented indeed with an Apple, the glaze and shine reminiscent of a toffee apple. However it is basically a soft Jelly representing the Apple skin, but coloured in such a realistic way the texture actually surprises you. Inside you are treated to an Apple/ cider Mousse, and in the Centre are little pieces of prepared Caramelised apple, providing another texture and taste sensation. Again it is delicately prepared, not filling, and delicious. It reminded me in concept ( visually), a little of Hestons liver parfait resembling an orange as served at Dinner.

      An Apple at Core – Surely not ?

      Last up is Pear and Verbena – a construction of meringue and discs of pear which resemble a work of modern art. If it appeared in a museum as a modern piece of sculpture I would defy anybody to understand it was edible. It secretly contained a Pear William Sorbet, which when – guiltily destroying this little masterpiece – you crash through the meringue you are rewarded with its grainy but sugary zing.

      Oh what a beautiful work of art

      Five Courses completed and I must say the experience is one of perfection. The quality and quantity of food is all perfectly judged so you are not finishing the meal feeling bloated/ uncomfortable. Of course there are some little sweet snacks provided to finish the meal, Sweet Wine Jellies and tiny chocolate tartlets.

      Drinks wise you are offered a wine pairing to go with either tasting menu at £95 per person. We opted for just a glass each of the 2016 Assyrtiko Estate from Santorini (£12.50 a glass ) to go with our first 2 courses. An old vine, lovely mineral white, perfect acidity, dry and crisp, and with enough body and character to carry itself with the flavours of the first few dishes. I Followed this by treating myself to a glass of 2012 Barolo Ravera, from Piedmont to go with my duck ( £23 a glass)-  an expensive little treat, but recommended by the very knowledgable and friendly Sommelier. In fact I realised towards the end of the meal the service had been impeccable because I had hardly noticed it, but we had not wanted for anything. Our glasses were never empty, our table cleared away efficiently and even the bill came minutes after being requested. Unobtrusively perfect.

      On leaving the restaurant I asked our waiter if I could meet Clare. He responded yes of course, and took me straight into the kitchen without hesitation. We had a quick chat together and  I was quite taken by her modesty and charm. Not every kitchen would welcome you in such a way. Again all of the team were smiling and took a second to greet me as I entered the kitchen, notwithstanding the fact they were in the midst of creating more culinary perfection.

      Last week I had been lipucky enough to have eaten at Kerridge’s in the Corinthia and had to rate it a 5. It was brassiere food on Steroids and quite outstanding. Core is a very different animal ( of fruit ?) , this is fine dining par excellence, but without the formality and stuffiness some people dread when visiting a highly rated 2 Michelin establishment. Both restaurants work for different occasions and with very different styles of food, and both are superb additions to London’s Gastronomic pedigree.

      Rating – Food – Blazingly Hot Pan 5/5

                     Service Effortlessly perfect 5/5 

      Core by Clare Smyth, 92 Kensington Park Road, W11.

      Tel 020 3937 5086

      corebyclaresmyth.com

      Filed Under: LATEST NEWS, RESTAURANT REVIEWS

      Kerridge’s Bar and Grill – Tom delivers a Wow Factor !

      November 25, 2018 by admin

      Kerridge’s Bar and Grill, Whitehall Place, SW1.

      Immediate Wow Factor in the Dining Room

      Imagine how absolutely happy I was when researching a restaurant to visit in conjunction with a Theatre trip to see Caroline or Change at the London Playhouse. A Theatre which is steps away from Embankment Underground but almost in an oasis of nothingness when you cast your net around the neighbouring streets. And then – lo and behold – I recognise that the Corinthia Hotel is across the road, seconds away, and where Mr.Kerridge has recently opened his first eponymous restaurant in the confines of the Hotel – yes, non other than cuddly Tom himself ! ( of course only half as cuddly as before after his successful Dopamine Diet adventures). Successfully spotting this location, location, location bit of luck, some 6 weeks before our Theatrical adventure, a post Theatre table at 10.15 was duly secured, and to be frank I was more excited about this than the show itself !

      The show at the Playhouse was worth seeing, if only for the spectacular exploits of the Star – Sharon D. Clarke – who delivers a standing ovation performance, and one of the best singular musical barnstormers this year. Sharon 5/5 – Show 4/5 overall …. oops , forgot this is a restaurant review not a Theatrical one. Let’s get back on point, apologies Mr.Kerridge !

      As mentioned, Location is so many times critical and paramount to a Restaurants success, and the location here is within the Corinthia Hotel on Northumberland Avenue, but with its own impressive entrance. The room itself delivers a bit of a Wow factor, with a bottle green ceiling, red leather booths, lots of brass and an impressive centre piece of a headless gold suited figure, apparently designed by Toms Missus herself. The space was looking even more seasonal and beautiful with thoughtful, and not over the top,Xmas decor, with the reds and greens of the tree, tinsel and baubles adding to the visual atmosphere. I recall this room a few years ago when I was in attendance for a friends birthday when it was Massimos, but I did not recognise it all until prompted by another in our party who was at the same celebration. This is now a beautiful dining room, and hats off to the designers here.

      Tom, I am sure, is extremely happy how things have worked out, having been on the look out for the right space in London to launch a restaurant to add to his 2 star Michelin pub, Hand and Flowers, in Marlow. I am unsure how much time he is spending in each location, but I guess the safest option would be just to produce a second Tom using cutting edge 3D technology. Failing that,  a rather decent and trusted Head Chef to oversee whatever restaurant he is not present in each evening.

      Our party of 4 are seated at an extremely attractive booth with a beautifully designed round table, glass topped and containing underneath, cut outs of shimmering blue/green/ red scales, resembling a circular fish – a work of art in itself. The menus are promptly provided, and list out 8 Starters and Main Courses. After a quick run through I want to try all but one starter ( Essex Beetroot Salad) and all Mains. This is how appetising the Menu is, and will ensure that I return. The dishes sound like pimped up English Pub/ brassiere classics,  with a hint of Hestons “Dinner” menu thrown in for good measure.

      Canapés for 4 hungry Souls

      All being very hungry, having not eaten since lunch and sitting down close to 22.30 for our late Dinner, we are all excited to be provided with our first morsel of food – free canapés of Cheese and Chive Baby tartlets, filled with what I think was a bechemal sauce of sorts, the pastry being fragile, snapping and dissolving in your mouth with the creamy cheese filling. Good starting Omen !

      Much has already been written about certain dishes which have already become Culinary and Instagram icons here, and 2 of these dishes are ordered by our party. I could not resist the wallet bashing Glazed Omelette ‘ Lobster Thermidor’ (£29 !) and C in my party went for the fabled “ Claude’s Mushroom Risotto with Daniels Crispy Egg and aged Parmesan” ( £14.50).

      Another Wow ! Lobster Omelette of sorts !

      The Omelette was legendary, rich, gooey, and each forkful heading towards your mouth still connected to its little trivet by stringy cheese desperately trying to keep intact with what was left of the dish. One of the best things I have eaten this year, and Lobster is not even a favourite of mine. Worth visiting the restaurant just for this dish. C thoroughly enjoyed her ‘rice less’ risotto with an exclamation of “Oh, my god” as she took her first mouthful.

      Risotto withoutRice !

      The crispy egg was a visual thing of wonder encased in thin strands of batter/ pastry looking like a spherical Dim Sum of sorts. Other starters chosen were a wondrous light and fragrant Cornish Crab Vol-Au-Vent with beautifully mandolined Radish’s decorating the top, and an Avocado,Green Apple and Crab Bisque served separately to pour around it. Lastly a Loch Duart Salmon with Apple pancake Douglas Fir and Avruga Caviar (£17) Another feast for the eyes and the taste buds.

      A 70s Vol Au Vent anybody !?

      Gosh – I nearly forgot the bread that I used to mop up the last of my Omelette sauce ! Some Black Treacle Sourdough that I definitely want the recipe for, or I shall have to break into the kitchens and hide away whilst it is being made, as this was awesome, sweet,and earthy, at the same time, and just begged me to get baking !

      Beautifully prepared and coloured Salmon with its friends

       

       

       

      In the meantime these amazing dishes were being washed down by some 2017 Spanish Albariño, Bodegas Albamar – citrusy, fresh and acidic enough to deal with all of the starters. The wine list ( as are so many in a Hotel Restaurants) was voluminous and contained not many options under £50. Our White was £53, and in choosing the Red to go with the Main Courses, I opted to go ‘experimental’ with a Greek Seira#3, Georgas Family 2017, an unusual wine made by Co-vinifying a French organic red grape with a traditional indigenous Greek white grape variety. Aged in French oak for 1-2 years, it was pretty dry with hints of a pear drop taste , but an interesting option – also at £53 – compared to the highly priced alternatives.

      It was so difficult to choose the Main when I was excited by every option on the Menu, but opted for the Rib of Beef from the Butchers Tap (?) with Chips,  Bone Marrow Sauce and Gherkin Ketchup (£39 – The most expensive of the Mains), but well worth it.

      Outstanding Rib of Beef !

      A huge slab of Medium/Rare Beef studded with bacon lardons and smothered in the Marrow Sauce. A beauty to behold and to taste, the only downside to every mouthful being that the portion was getting smaller as you were getting closer to the end ! I want an infinite Kerridge Rib of Beef ! The little bucket of chips also did not disappoint – Triple Cooked, fluffy and pillow like inside, golden to the point of perfection on the outside. Only half way through my dish I spotted the little tub of green sauce on my right which looked Coriander like in colour. I had foolishly forgotten my Gherkin ketchup, which when finally tasted made my taste buds go wow, zing, YES ! Tom, my good man, you need to fill up glass jars of this and sell it on the way out – you will make a packet ! Now there’s an business opportunity idea for you ! Happy to take charge of this project ! Generous as I am – to a fault – I also gave a taster of this ketchup to D, on my right, who was ploughing her way through the Fish and Chips dish.

      Fish and Chips for £36.50 !

      But you do get 3 accompaniments!

       

      To be more precise – Deep Fried Halibut and Chips with Pease Pudding, Tartare and Matson Spiced Sauce (£36.50- for Fish and Chips !!!). She thought the Gherkin ketchup a great accompaniment to her meal, so it can multi task ! What a star ! This dish was another stand out meal, and the Matson Spiced Sauce making it the poshest Chips in Curry Sauce in the Land !

      A Pie and Black Pudding – Heaven !

      The other dish which I really had my eye on was the Pigs Cheek Pie with Clotted Cream Mash, Crispy Black Pudding and Devilled Sauce. 1) Love a Pie 2 ) Love Pigs Cheeks 3) Love Black Pudding. This was chosen by our other Diner – P- who managed to devour it before I had a chance to steal any ! The pie was dwarfed by the size of the plate that it sat upon, and it had a cute little pastry snout for aesthetics. The black pudding sat atop the mash on a separate little pot and the sauce again pourable from its own little gravy dish.

      We had ordered a couple of side dishes too. A Truffled Celeriac option, which was autumnal, earthy and luxuriant. Additionally a Garlic Roasted Savoy Cabbage which had been purposefully cremated to almost a cinder on the underneath, but the burnt buttery taste was also very pleasurable, and being smothered in garlicky mayo and chives scored again.

      Burnt Garlicky Savoy Cabbage

      Not one Diner disappointed, all dishes scoring very highly. 4 very satisfied Diners, however impossible to try Desserts. It was already almost midnight, and whilst we are full, it is also late, and therefore we will have to return to judge the sweet offers another day. After advertising some of his recipes in The Times recently,  I had already made one of the Dessert options at a Dinner Party myself – the Roasted Vanilla and Honey Creme Brulee. It was awesome, but a lot of hard work. However this little test already encourages me to think the other sweets will also be a hit – all on offer at £13.50. Selection of Cheeses at £16.50.

      Truffled Celeriac on our Arty table

      Tom – I think you have created an instant classic ! Certainly appeals to my taste buds, and will wish to return ASAP ! Having said that, and the only downside, is that a meal here could require you to take out a second mortgage – especially if you indulge in more expensive wine and more than the 2 bottles our party of 4 shared during our evening. Some people may baulk at Fish and Chips for close on £40, which may take this restaurant into the Special occasion category , unless you are on an expense account. However, whatever way you work out to pay for the meal,  you will not be disappointed. Hats off to you Mr.Kerridge, you are certainly not a flash in the pan, but an amazing, Blazingly Hot Pan !

       

       

       

      Rating   Food – Blazingly Hot Pan 5/5

                    Service – Blazingly Hot Pan 5/5

      Kerridges Bar and Grill , Whitehall Place, Westminster , SW1A 2 BD ( inside Corinthia Hotel) 

      tel 0207 930 8181 

      kerridgesbarandgrill.co.uk

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

      Filed Under: RESTAURANT REVIEWS

      Holborn Dining Room – Pyes for the 21st Century !

      November 18, 2018 by admin

      Holborn Dining Room – Rosewood Hotel, High Holborn.

      Holborn Dining Room

      No, I have not spelt the word wrong “Pyes” – this is the old English spelling from the 12th Century of what would have been a predominantly meat Pye. Initially designed as a storage vessel, the crust and pastry encasing the meat was there to protect and preserve the nutritious insides, and was often discarded as being simply the packaging. 9 centuries later and we arrive at Chef Calum Franklin, Executive Chef at the Rosewood Hotel, Holborn, who is making the humble Pie a piece of art work – playing right into the hands of today’s Instagramming hordes of Diners.

      Indeed Chef Calum does not only have a selection of pies on his menu every evening but also has initiated a Pie Room that is selling upwards of a 100 pies a day for take away Monday to Friday. He is also behind an initiative to utilise the Hotels Courtyard as an Artisan market during the weekends, and is helping to teach old skills to younger chefs in his kitchen, who can work 5 at a time on one specific design for a pie. Calum Franklin himself has had experience in various restaurants but has been most recently employed as the Senior Sous Chef at Roast in Borough Market. Having been invited to take over the kitchens at the Rosewood, he apparently found an old Pate de Croute mould in the kitchens and was interested to discover how to fill it. This curiosity rapidly expanded to an obsession for design and structure of all things “Pye” and the Holborn Pie Room and the brasseries new Menu was born.

      With some of Calum’s recipes now appearing in Newspapers and online, I, and many others have already tried to replicate them, and Calum has adapted some to assist the typical home chef, even utilising – dare I say it – shop bought Pastry – Sacre Blue !  or maybe as we are talking an Old English recipe, more appropriately, Gordon Bennet ! ( This is also a nod to my good French friend, A, accompanying me at the restaurant, and currently discovering the humour of “ Only fools and Horses” but being quite mystified by Delboys exclamations with reference to Mr. Bennet !)

      To the restaurant itself. One end of the space – Entrance area- is occupied by a Gin Bar claiming to house approx 300 varieties of Gin and offering various cocktails derived from their voluminous stock. The remainder of the room offers itself as a dining space in what A described as a typical French brasserie style but “chicer” – think lots of brass and red leather. High ceilings and many little lampshades around giving it a buzzy but welcoming atmosphere. They can handle 200 covers an evening. I do recall this space from maybe 10 years ago when it was a restaurant by the name of a Pearl. It only stands out in my memory as I had a monkfish starter that so impressed me I asked – jokingly – if I could have the recipe, and at the end of the menu the Chef came our with a hand written A4 sheet with all ingredients and method. This is the first and only time I have experienced that – makes me think – where is that sheet of paper now ?

      Anyway back to 2018 ! We are seated at a comfortable enough round table, meaning that 2 of us will get the comfy sofa and one of us the rickety chair. No surprises for guessing how that one went ! Upon presentation of the Menus the waiter informs us that the Curried Mutton pie is no longer available – that’s one of the 5 pies on offer already gone, and it’s only 19.30 ! Due to my haphazard stalking of Chef Calum on Instagram I know he has been on Honeymoon in Mexico – utilising the Rosewood Myokoba ( which I have also been lucky enough to visit), and enquire if he has yet returned. Unfortunately not the Waiter replies, so there goes my ambition of meeting with him and touring the kitchens – another time !

      The menu is unexpectedly extensive, and in addition to the pies there is on offer a Cold Counter offering specialised English charcuterie ( Hackney Culatello anybody ?) , a Seafood Counter ( with all produces coming in from Padstow), and a wide ranging expanse of Starters and Mains. Not cheap, but we are in an expensive Hotel, so maybe I should not be surprised.

      Jersey Rocks – and Rolls !

      My other Dining companion ( C – also French), wants Oysters, and the Jersey Rocks are on the menu at £18 for half a dozen. Very traditionally served with the extras you would expect but all shunned by C who does not want Tabasco or Red Wine Vinegar corrupting the sweet juicy flesh of the molluscs. She is very happy with them,very fresh, not too salty and of reasonable size. C wanted a glass of White to wash them down, and the Sommelier here excelled himself with service and recommendations. He offered a Furmint from Hungary (£12 a glass) or a French Viognier (£18), but poured both and allowed all 3 of us to smell/ taste before C made her choice. Looking at the Reds to accompany our main courses, then the wine list was starting at around £45 a bottle. I advised our Sommelier I was interested in the Chatea Musar Cabernet blend from 2009. He provided a knowledgable and engaging story about the wine and how usually it is drunk young, but that he discovered a 2009 which he was impressed with and contacted the producer direct to secure a few cases. At £62 not something you would be drinking too many bottles of in one evening, but scanning down the list, this price was still at the bottom end but appeared to offer more value for money, and something a little different – which indeed it was. Peppery and Honey like on the nose, and more Pepper than honey on the palate, but very enjoyable and not what you would expect from a typical Bordeaux blend.

      The humble Scotch Egg elevated to Fine Dining !

      My starter choice was the Scotch Egg (£10) – but not any Scotch Egg. This was advertised on the menu as a Monkshill Farm Scott Egg which had been a Winner of the Scotch Egg Challenge. How can you resist a champion Scotch Egg ? The waiter explained it had been a Winner 2 years ago, and used Burford Brown Egg encased in a combination of White Pudding and ( I established later) pork sausage meat from the pig equivalent of Kobe Beef – a domesticated Mangalitsa Hungarian Pig. This was all nestling on a bed of Caper mayonnaise. Undoubtedly the best Scotch Egg I had ever experienced, with a golden creamy perfectly prepared yolk, and a delicate consistency of sausage meat that I was quite surprised about, elevating a Scotch Egg to a Fine Dining experience. Caper mayonnaise was also a wonderful salty accompaniment, and ensured the potential dryness of a Scotch Egg was avoided.

      Taking into consideration I had chosen the restaurant due to its Pie status then my eyes would not allow me to linger elsewhere on the menu. The choices were Chicken, Girolle and Tarragon, Steak and Kidney ( using braised cheek), Hand raised Pork Pie ( Pork Shoulder, Smoked bacon, fennel seeds and sage), or a Vegetarian offer Of Potato, Comte and Caramelised Onion with Parsley Sauce.  All pies priced at £20 other than the Chicken at £22. We all individually reviewed the options, and then  incredibly all came up with the same choice – 3 Chicken pies. Not good for a reviewer as I can now only comment on 3 Chickens ! 

      Elsewhere on the menu there were many options from Shrimp Burgers to Fish and Chips ( £19), Rare Breed Sirloins (£34) to Holborn Beef Burgers (£24) Not untypical of any variety you would come to expect in a Brasserie, and seemingly hoping to cater for its Global Hotel guests – from couples to families.

      The Pies ? Good, but not exceptionally so. Visually perfect, sitting on a vibrant Pea Purée, Pastry excellent, interior –  chicken soft, good punch of Tarragon, but missing a little Oomph ? Something ? Maybe needed a stronger sauce, more girolles. Just seemed to lack something, to the extent I was thinking I could have made better at home ? Never a good thing when you paying £22 for the benefit. As mentioned, as we all went like sheep ( or chickens) for the same pie, I cannot comment on other pies, so it means a second visit to perform a proper critique. Do not misunderstand me, I enjoyed eating the pie, and it was a lovely feeling of comfort when doing so , but I just had a lingering doubt in my mind that I was expecting a little more.

      Sides – nothing to shout about here !

      The sides did not impress. A Green Garden Salad that went almost untouched. White Cabbage, Fennel and Apple slaw which was just boring, and Champ which is basically pimped up Irish mashed Potato. The later worked well with the Pie and Peas, but £5 for a small dish of mashed Pots ?

      As reported on previous reviews, my friend A is a Dessert fiend, so whilst we were all pretty full from our Pies he was avidly perusing the sweets, anticipating dessert Pies, which were surprisingly non existent. The nearest you came to a Fruit Pie was a classic Tarte Tatin for 2 persons at £16. As an alternative he chose a Paris Brest, and with being French I realised A was the perfect Friend to ask – what is it ? . He explained that Paris – Brest was a cycling race, and the Dessert had been invented to celebrate, or commemorate this race, and in doing so was designed to resemble the wheel of a bicycle.

      Paris Brest – apparently a Bicycle inspired Dessert

      Basically it is a choice pastry cut open and spread with a creamy praline with hazelnuts inside and almonds outside. He enjoyed it, but he would enjoy anything sweet ! As we discussed, some people complain when they experience a sugar rush – he is the opposite – and needs to maintain the high levels of sugar in his body or he will experience a “sugar down” which could be fatal !

      Not sticky enough toffee pudding

      As C and I did not want to sit and watch A eat alone we ordered a Sticky Toffee Pudding to share, simply because C did not know if she liked this or not. It was served with a Tonka Bean Ice Cream, and was extremely rich, slightly overbearing on the cinnamon side, and relied heavily on its bed of caramel sauce to overcome its dryness. Ok, but not the best – not sticky enough for my liking !

      Did we like the Holborn Dining Room ? Atmosphere was good for a Hotel Dining Room, and Service – especially from the Sommelier- was excellent. Food highlight for me was the Scotch Egg, Pies good, and enjoyed eating it, but a certain “ je ne sais quoi “ missing. On reflection maybe there is a certain aim towards the Hotels International guests – especially Americans as I really don’t think they are familiar with such Pies. For myself, maybe upon a return visit I can understand a little better, and would like to see the kitchens and the pie making at work. Come back Calum, your restaurant and I need you !

      Rating       – Food          Hot Pan 3/5

                       – Service.    Very Hot Pan 4/5 

      Holborn Dining Room, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN

      Tel 0207 747 8633

      holborndiningroom.com

       

       

       

       

       

      Filed Under: LATEST NEWS, RESTAURANT REVIEWS

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