With an evening free and by myself in Padstow I thought it would be a great opportunity to visit the little Fishing Villages only Michelin Starred Restaurant.
Whilst Padstow really has become Padstein with Ricks Restaurants, Cafes,Patisserie, School, Shop , Pub – the list goes on, one would have thought it brave for some interloper to take him on at his own game – especially some oik from Southampton !
Paul though has tremendous pedigree having worked with Gary Rhodes for 2 years in 1998 at The Square, and subsequently having stints with Gordon Ramsey at his eponymous Royal Hospital Road Restaurant, Petrus with Marcus Waring, and then at the Berkeley Hotel alongside Marcus. After being invited down to Padstow to work as Head Chef at No 6 the opportunity came to take over the business, which alongside his wife, they have run from 2010.Like Rick that have branched out to take over Rojano – a high class Pizza and Pasta Restaurant by the Harbour and to also set up a small hotel. Number 6 is situated in a small townhouse a stones throw from the Harbour and next to another Rick Stein venture. However Paul’s cooking and style sets itself quite apart from any of Ricks businesses and it appears that This town is big enough for the 2 of them.
The room itself has recently been renovated and there is now a large window on one wall giving an excellent view into the compact kitchen.
Online the restaurant had suggested they were full so I paid them a visit at 5 to surprise their staff dinner and asked if it was possible for an early table for one. They could not have been more helpful even though I was disturbing what was probably a rare break for them, and the lovely Anna offered me a table at 6.15, or if it’s for one “ basically any time you wish for” How accommodating is that ?
A quick schlep home and change ( well Anna had to see me spruced up ?) and then I returned to see the restaurant now ready for its evening clientele. I was shown to a table directly looking at the kitchen and offered a newspaper all presumably to offset the fact that I was dining alone. Little did they know I would be taking notes, photographing everything and dropping my phone into my main meal.
A cocktail and drinks menu was quickly offered and Very clean cut, well suited and helpful Gentleman came up for a chat – again probably thinking who this sad Gentleman was having dinner alone. As soon as he established I was doing work experience at Steins he became very animated and promised me a good evening – er ? Careful now.
So I ordered a Cornwall G and T Margarita not quite knowing why – I think due to being in confusion at that point. It came up strong and citrusy and not bad at all, however I was still pondering why I had ordered it. Calm down and concentrate ! Let’s look at the Food Menu to get grounded !
Well 5 starters / 5 mains and 5 Desserts. I like that- not too confusing but enough variety to suit even the most awkward or obnoxious Diners.
Actually I almost wanted everything listed. Quite telling that it was almost “ Anti Fish” so you could feel that it was waving a nonchalant stick at Rick almost teasing him with its meat themed menu. Only the catch of the Day on the Mains could be seen to be competitively going up against the Steinmeister.
Having been in a Seafood Restaurant kitchen for the past 4 days I was happy to go Carnivorous and therefore opted for Pigs Head Fritter with roast Onion, Coxs Pippin Apple and smoked eel. Other starters involved all the rabbit ( a terrine that I was promised really involving all body parts) a smoked haddock Quiche Lorraine and Jacobs Ragu Bolognese – which I am assuming was connected to Jacobs ladder, another meat cut.
Before my starter a Porthilly Oyster – caught just over the road I was advised – came up as a pre starter with a smoked cods roe mayonnaise.
Great presentation – don’t swallow whole !
It had been deep fried in breadcrumbs and reminded you that you should actually eat Oysters in 2 or 3 bites and chew rather than swallow whole. Well actually you couldn’t with this one but it made you think about the next one that you potentially could.
This Oyster had real flavour and bite to it, and whilst not as sea salty as a raw one, was very satisfying coupled with the Mayo, and the breadcrumbs gave the silky oyster texture an extra oomph !
To my actual first course as ordered. These bloody free bits and pieces always get you confused as to where you are especially if you opt for the tasting menu ( nothing to do with being at Number 6) – after 8 small dishes – what do you mean now we start our Tasting menu ? I am ready to go home already. Apologies , little uncalled for rant there.
Ok back on planet earth. Starter. Pigs Head Fritter. A lovely slab/block of Fritter with nice little cubes of apples on top and a tiny piece of something I presume to be eel sitting on an onion.
Fantastically presented dish.
I cannot recall but I have eaten a similar pigs head Fritter before, not that it should take anything away from this one. Apple with pork, a bit of fatty eel and an onion that tasted meaty too all on one plate, it worked very well. I thought there was meat involved in the onion itself, when questioned the Waitress advised that maybe the onion was not just cooked in red wine but a mixture of red wine and meat stock. Anyway the onion was a star here very meltingly soft, meaty and adding a perfect combination to the Fritter.
Oh forgot the Bread And butter bit ! It was Explained beautifully by Becky another very helpful waitress all of whom seemed to know the workings of the kitchen and food they were serving as well as the chefs that had cooked it. This is a massive plus for me. So Salted butters and a caramelised butter – very nutty on the palate – and complimenting the fantastic Organic Brown Sourdough bread which I learnt had been cooked for an hour at very high Temperature to achieve a special hard crust but a very soft inside – bit like me ?
Mains – my order was Hogget with red garlic ketchup cucumber and sweetbread fricasee . Hogget is not a so well known or offered piece of meat – a sheep is called a hogget after it is one year old) but a piece o& meat that should have a great depth of flavour I& prepared correctly. Other mains included the aforementioned catch the day ( Monkfish) , chicken Tornedos Rossini and a Soy glazed duck. Minimum Mains price £31. Others up to £45.
My main came looking like a little Chocolate Fondant and first impressions were not good. On the side my fricasee did not look beautiful but I was full of confidence due to my love of sweetbreads!
.
I
nside the little pudding shaped Fondant were lots of small cubes of Hogget but also something crunchy? When I emptied the contents of the side dish to my main plate not only did I find sweetbread but Burnt celeriac and some other part of the lamb/sheep. Could it be tongue ? Yes. All together this was a great combination with what I found out to be lambs belly crisped up like bacon (waitress speak not mine)providing a wonderful texture to the soft and sweet sweetbreads with the earthy taste of the cubed Hogget and some lovely little lambs tongue to set it off. What did not look so pretty delivered a punch.
becky informed me the tongue was her highlight of the dish and she was not far wrong. She then offered me Dessert advising this would be an even greater highlight. I explained that Dessert was usually my least favourite part of a meal so she determined to change my mind. She insisted I should look no further than the Bread And Butter pudding with Pedro Ximenez and roast vanilla Ice Cream accredited to Gary Rhodes 1998 in the menu – which I thought was a lovely touch to Mr. Ainsworths mentor.
Best Dessert in the World .
Ask Becky !
She also offered a sweet wine to go with it upon which I took up her offer ashy now so seemed to be very much in her hands. It was a recommended Muscat at £17 a glass but I do not recall all the details. Anyway the dessert itself was spectacular and maybe was not far from being one of the best desserts in the world.
Large cubes of softly steeped bread swimming in a sweet vanilla custard – Creme Anglais – surrounded by little individual sultanas and raisons topped by the wonderful ice cream. I wanted a raisin with every mouthful and I think I got one. I believe this is a classic Gary Rhodes recipe with the original just missing the Ice Cream.
I forgot to report about Wine – being alone I did not want to drink a bottle to myself so what this restaurant offers is a Coravin whereby wine can be poured from a bottle without removing the cork so that you can enjoy just a glass of something special. This was the perfect opportunity to employ that so I went for a glass of Aloxe Corton Domaine Maillard Pere et fils burgundy. The menu said 2013 but they poured me a 2014. The first on offer was good but on realising her mistake the waitress bought a 2014 as well which I preferred. Strawberry hints and good body and finish. £26 a glass but something which would have been a real treat to have by the bottle. Not aware of many restaurants offering this service ?
The staff in this restaurant went out of the way to look after me and demonstrated an excellent knowledge of the dishes they were serving. I am struggling to decide if the restaurant deserves the top rating criteria or not. There are clear nods to the style of Rhodes and Waring in the preparation and presentation of the food and it is accomplished – is it modern/ trendy – No, but faultless.
I think I may already need to widen my parameters of scoring for restaurants as 5 Pans do not necessarily cover the subtleties of the restaurant environment currently. For now
Food – Very Hot Pan
Service – Blazingly Hot Pan