Parsons – A compact little gem of a place.
I have never been to the 10 Cases Wine Bar/Bistro in Endell Street,Covent Garden but maybe I should review that misdemeanour – especially if their recently opened Fish/Seafood across the road is any sort of indicator as to what I should expect at home base.
Endell Street itself is one of those roads just on the edge of Covent Garden where I cannot recall finding myself before, it’s not one you would necessary walk along if you were just strolling around the area, like, god forbid , being a Tourist. The fact I had made a reservation in Parsons made me check out Google maps to ensure I knew where I was going, and despite being within a 5 minute amble from the Underground it was not a road that was busy, other than the crowds standing outside the neighbouring pub and the people seen inside the aforementioned 10Cases. On arrival at Parsons the first 2 impressions are – Gosh, this is small space, and Wow, the gleaming white tiles – Is it a shiny public convenience, or was it one until recently ? But the welcome is warm, and having booked a table for 2 and spying only one small table for 2 free in the crammed restaurant it is obvious where we are to be placed. Everything is compact here with the tables on the left for more formal dining and some bar stools/ higher tables on the right for more informal get togethers. Indeed the space is so compact our jackets are taken from us and lifted by long spear like contraptions to be hung on a semi circular rail high above the entrance door – now that’s an ingenious use of space !
On taking our seats it is obvious this is not a place for secret liaisons or private conversations with only a few centimetres between tables, however the atmosphere is convivial with a menu acting as your place mat and specials written up on the tiles or on glass mirrors. The specials more or less represent the main courses with the majority of snacks/starters described in front of you.
Whilst the Specials are, I am sure, excellent ( whole sea bream/Salmon/ monkfish all on offer) we decided to go Tapas style and try as many
Potted shrimp Croquettes
of the inviting Starters on offer as possible. To commence – and in line with our Tapas strategy – we ordered the Potted Shrimp croquettes which arrived golden brown, a crunchy Panko style crust enveloping a creamy rich bechamel sauce in which nestled the strong flavoured umami shrimps that hit the spot immediately. The third croquettes being carefully cut in half to avoid fighting over the larger of the two halves !
Oysters – there is an R in the month again !
These were followed by one of the special starters written up – 6 Colchester Oysters which came in a traditional style – on ice, with Side accompaniements of Tabasco,Lemon and Red wine vinegar/Shallots. Being back in Oyster season these were excellent, with our without the side dressings, and good value at £1.50 each.
The dishes were coming randomingly but that was ok providing they could find room on our table. Next up was the Brown Crab Pissaladiere which was a thing of beauty – it resembled a baby pizza, with slowly Caramelised onions mingled together with the brown crab and topped with little splodges of vibrant Tarragon Purée and fried little Tarragon leaves.
A baby Brown Crab Pizza !? Or Pissaladiere?
Tasted as good as it looked and could easily have eaten one each rather than share it !
Looking good – SeaBream Carpaccio
Another dish from the Starter specials was Sea Bream Carpaccio which came with thinly sliced Kohlrabi, an XO sauce and dried Chillis giving a textural and spice crunch to an excellently balanced and strong flavoured dish. Surprisingly the fish held its own against the other strong flavours and we both enjoyed this too.
Following on from this was a plate of grilled Octopus tentacles which were paired with duck fat roast potatoes, Paprika and Parsley Oil. This was quite an original pairing and was a very successful marriage. I had read (from Jay Rayner ) that the fries in Parsons were very impressive but as we had not ordered them I can only comment , Potato wise, on these Roasties, but these were also things of crunchy beauty which complimented the soft and tender octopus to a tee.
Wow – Roasties with Octopus !
This represented one of the most expensive starters at £12.50, all others on the menu range from £6.50 upto to the most expensive at £14.50 for the Lobster and Avocado Cocktail.
Last up for the starters was the Squid, Black Rice and Caulifower Aioli. The squid here was cut into long strips, and the cauliflower pieces mandolined to delicate thin morsels sitting in the Aioli. Another good dish however the quantity of squid a little modest and a little chewy.
Squid, Black Rice, Cauliflower Aioli
Probably the least successful of the dishes but still more than passable.
Avoiding the main courses gave us an opportunity to share one dessert and we chose the Apple Tarte Fine which was a generous portion to be shared and came with Cream. The apples were delicately sliced and arranged and pastry balanced with the right level of flakiness/chewiness to make it indeed a “Fine” dish. Interestingly the Sweets/Savoury Menu also listed a Steak sandwich which I felt was a little unusual.
Very Fine Apples
The very smiley and helpful waitress explained that in some French seafood restaurants the customers can partake in a lot of wine and limiting themselves to seafood during the meal is not enough to keep them sober before the journey home. Therefore they fill up up/ sober up with a steak sandwich (£5) before returning home – no doubt completely masking the fact from their wives ( or maybe husbands – gender equality being important to all my reviews) that they have sat drinking wine for the last 10 hours! But don’t knock it if you have not tried it – one for the list of a million things I have not done ( as yet).
I have not mentioned drinks yet. There is a comprehensive Wine by the Glass list ranging from £5.50 to £10.50 (excluding Champagne) which you can also order as a 500 ml Carafe- I guess fitting for Wine Bar owners of repute. A very good selection of fairly unusual Whites and a few reds to round off the list. I had ventured for a Vermintino from Tuscany however this was unfortunately unavailable and I was recommended a skin contact similar wine ( no recollection of its provenance) which was amber like in appearance and tasted of all things a little cidery, but not unpleasant, and worked well with the array of dishes that we had tried.
Of course I need a second visit to try at least one of the main courses, but I have high hopes based on what we had eaten on this first visit and I do not want to delay publishing my impressions after one visit – who knows how long a second visit maybe delayed when they are so many new and interesting places to review !
When I think of well established London Seafood Restaurants J.Sheekey comes to mind as the Old Dame – a little Queen Elizabeth like – Dependable, been around forever, Impervious to criticism and an English classic. After a visit to Parsons then maybe it should be regarded as the Meghan Markel- new kid on the block, freshening things up, on trend, and less than half the price ! Recommended!
Parsons, 39 Endell Street, WC2H 9BA.
Rating – Almost Blazingly HotPan 4.5/5
Service Same 4.5/5