Farzi Cafe, Haymarket – Luvly Jubly !
It is a bit of a further journey from India to the West End than from Peckham to the West End, but for the next twelve weeks Farzi Cafe and Only Fools and Horses the Musical will be unlikely neighbours in Haymarket – Cushty ! Farzi Cafe is the first UK outpost of Indian restauranter and Masterchef India Judge Mr. Zorowar Kalra.
Having spotted the restaurant next door to the Theatre and due to see a performance on the Friday night, it seemed the perfect opportunity to try something new and explore the rumoured £4Million that Mr. Kalra had invested in the spot.
Farzi apparently means “Fake” in Urdu, and Zorowar explains that this word is used to explain its post molecular and post modern techniques applied to the dishes, resulting in food that looks like one thing but is in fact something entirely different.
First impressions are important and here the welcome is friendly with two well dressed receptionists taking coats and guiding us to the table. The restaurant is sleek looking with lots of gold in evidence, and incorporating boothes for four/five people down one side of the dining space facing a long impressive bar showing off every type of whiskey you can imagine – and more. Eating so early at 5.30 Pre – Theatre can be a lonely and quiet affair but the restaurant is already quite busy with lots of families in evidence (small children too) and it is very much a multi cultural environment.
The Menu. It is long. It contains many odditities, and a few more familiar plates. Some dishes sound recognisable, but the addition in small print accompanying the dishes lead you onto an unchartered path of flavours. There are several headings – Nano Plates ( presumably smaller than Small Plates, Small Plates ( presumably larger than Nano plates), Pao and Sliders, Roasts and Grills, Farzified English Classics, Mains,Biryanis and Sides. It all appears reasonably priced on the face of it, with most Small Plates coming in at between £6 and £10 ( one exception being the Lamb Chops at £14) , and mains ranging from £8 to the most expensive at £22 being a Lobster and Mussel Moilee.
We decide to steer clear of the fusion style British Classics – which includes a Halibut Fish and Chips with Chukki Pea Mash ( wouldn’t be seen dead in Peckham) , or a Masala Wagyu Cottage Pie with Purple Potato Mash, and leave these for another (potential) visit.
We are being served by Mark from Poland who I doubt has ever set foot in India but is being charming and efficient and recommending a way to navigate through the menu. From the Nano Plates we opt for Flamed Padron Peppers aloo chokha and they arrive quickly, plump, salty and indeed charred with radishes, pea shoots and an unknown sauce, which we assume is the Chokha. There are 8 for £5 and taste good if not revelatory.
A Tuna Ceviche arrives with a scattering of pink peppers and three little mounds of puffed rice and other wierd and wonderful stuff, but all actually rather good. The Tuna being zingy and fresh, with the rice giving texture and crunch. Our favourite Small Plate is the Pan Tossed Shrooms with Black truffle haze. We did not know how this would appear and whilst Mark did his best to respond to our enquiries, his explanation really just repeated our best guess as to what we would be delivered. What arrived was a generously filled bowl of creamy coconut orange (almost soup like) concoction filled with various Mushroom varieties and tasted really rather fabulous – Pas De Calais !
The final Small Plate involved three large Madras Pepper Prawns curling in on themselves and served with aerated thayir sadam- whoever and whatever that is. What we understood were some Yoghurt like Cream blobs to accompany each prawn which cooled down each forkful in a pleasant enough manner.
As a note here we had asked Mark for a portion of Naga Pork and he actually countered against it as it represented their spiciest starter. We choose to forego it and we’re rather glad as the Small Plates were not so small, and we had a lot more to follow. Beware of the portion sizes here !
So far all meals had arrived in quick succession and there was an appropriate, but not too long a gap, before the Mains arrived.
Wagyu Seekh Kebab
Wagyu Seekh Kebab with a Kachumber Salad was succulent and also generous for £15 ( whether or not it was using Wagyu was difficult to tell ) but it was well spiced and moorish. Presentation not as impressive as what had come before, but what can you do with a kebab ?
Tandoori Goat Shoulder with Kamiri Kulcha had been sliced up, and had just the right amount of fat clinging to it to make it the best part of the overall meal. Tender, Smokey and just the right amount of burnt edges to render it perfect and be voted by all three of us as the outstanding dish. Chateau Neuf De Pape – Impressive !
The final Main was a Grainy Mustard Salmon Tikka – light and bouncy, not too spicey, accompanied by a mint cream, all hidden under an edible net of something or other.
The sides were ok. One portion of steamed rice – again a large portion to easily feed three, a Dhal which was sloppy and not as good as Dishooms. A Warer Chesnut and Bell Pepper Raita which was not to my liking. However all excellent value at £3 each bearing in mind you are in Piccadilly.
We had no time for desserts this time round, but already my two dining mates C and D are planning a return trip during the forthcoming week so they may be able to road test them next time round. D also made the remark her Mother would love it at Farzi Cafe, and there is the attraction. Good Value, High Quality ( even if you do not know what you are letting yourself in for dish by dish), and excellent efficient service. In this particular area of the West End there are many competing restaurants, but so many are over priced for what they are offering. The likes of Gymkhana or Indian Accent may provide more of a Fine Dining Indian experience, but for something more in the style of a fancy Indian Bistro with a twist, Farzi Cafe was a hit – in Trotter parlance “Creme De la Menthe”!
Farzi Cafe – Food Very Hot Pan 4/5
Service. Blazingly Hot Pot 5/5 ( Thanks Mark)
8 Haymarket, London. SW1Y 4BP – 020 3981 0090
Farzilondon.com