RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Core by Clare Smyth – Kensington Park Road. Core Blimey – As good as it gets !

Rainy day but things are about to get better !

Some months ago, towards the end of our final term at Leiths, we sounded out our Tutor Michael to try to determine which restaurant he would most like to visit. The intention was to purchase a gift voucher for him and his wife to visit a restaurant of his choice – our present to him for his patience and skill with our class over the 9 month period of tuition. He nominated Core as the one restaurant he had never visited but had the desire to. I am assuming he has managed to use this voucher by now, and hope he had a wonderful experience there. The restaurant had also been on my radar since opening in August 2017, and the fact that it was recently awarded 2 Michelin stars had further peaked my interest, albeit this accolade had not made it easy to book, requiring an advance reservation of some 6 weeks ahead.

Clare Smyth is well known to anybody who has a passing interest in restaurants. She is the only female chef to have headed up a 3 star Michelin restaurant in the UK, being the Chef Patron at Ramsey’s Hospital Road, before her own debut restaurant here. She appears to have stolen other members of staff from her previous establishment too, judging by the bio’s of her team on the Core website. She was recently voted best Michelin Female chef 2017 – not bad for someone born on a farm  in County Antrim , Northern Ireland.

Upon arrival at the restaurant, and once your coats have been taken, you walk through a bar area , then turn right, and immediately on your left there is a large open kitchen situated behind a vast glass wall. Clare was there smiling away and greeted us as we walked through – nice touch. In fact all the staff smile at you upon arrival, in an almost knowing, respectful and modest way, welcoming you to their gastronomic Palace.

The Room itself is bright and airy and has a calm and unstuffy feel about it. Diners were casually dressed, and you could immediately feel – whilst it is a Michelin started establishment – it did not feel pretentious in anyway.

You have 3 options on the menu – and thank god no sharing plates ! There is the full on Tasting Menu with 8 courses at £ 115, or a “baby” Tasting Menu with 5 courses at £95, and a traditional A La Carte for you to pick and choose. I liked the idea of the small Tasting Menu as you are not always prepared for a long sitting and 8 courses, plus Amuse Bouche etc, so this is what we opted for.

Although not advertised on the Small Menu we did receive 4 little snacks before our menu formally commenced, and strangely these had only been outlined on the Full Tasting Menu. They arrive in their own little gardens, gnarled pieces of wood, turf, flowers – it’s a real procession of beauty for the eyes, and we of course eat with eyes – No ? Well if initially we eat with eyes, thereafter our tastebuds must play some part in it, and here they go into overdrive.

Cheese Ball anyone ?

First up is a single delicate Cheese and Onion Gougere sitting on its own little pedestal, akin to being served a boiled egg, however this one has a little Mohican and contains a bechamal sauce, creamy,cheesy and leaving you wanting for me. However, don’t panic, there are many other beauties in the garden. Little slabs of jellied eel !? Really ? Nestling in separate dishes, surrounded by jelly, and themselves set into a Wooden bowl containing a Feng shui pebble garden, surrounded by other blobs of Jelly and greenery – toasted Seaweed if you must. Before being allowed to eat the eel, they are sprayed with malt vinegar emanating from a perfume bottle. Unsure if you like Jellied Eels? Me too, but this was taken up a notch and the aroma of vinegar added to the senses at work here. Sight, Smell, Taste.

Jellied Eels making a comeback

What else is in the garden ? Sitting atop their own turfed log were 2 little Foie Gras and Madeira tarts with a sliver of dried duck meat on top.

Not every garden contains its own Foie Gras tartlets

Gamey and luxuriant but oh so delicate too. Final part of the amuse bouche were also a playful treat for the eyes. At the end of 2 metal skewers sitting either side of a little forest of Thyme, sat a crispy smoked piece of duck wing, glistening and inviting, and having the benefit of being marinated (or smoked ) with burnt orange and spices.

Duck lost in a forest of Thyme

One bite and gone, but what flavours – I could have managed another dozen skewers of these bite sized little gems. Maybe some people will not like the Theatrical way of serving these bites, but I was pleasantly surprised by the beauty of everything presented, and it helps the restaurant to differentiate itself from its contemporaries.

The various vessels used to serve and beautify our snacks are removed, and the table is ready now for the real serious business to begin. The first item on the small tasting menu is a dish already so iconic, I think it probably has its own Facebook and Instagram page. It is a nod to where Clare was brought up in Ireland, close to the sea, and therefore uses the most stable of all Irish ingredients, and representing the Land – The Potato. However sitting atop this potato is herring and trout roe to represent the sea, some fermented potato chips, sorrel giving it an added splash of colour, and then all sitting in a lake of Dulse Beurre Blanc – Seaweed, again remembering her childhood by the sea. It is an amazing looking dish and again once your eyes have finished taking it all in the taste blows you away. How can a potato be this good ? I am unsure how it is prepared, but it is smokey, reminiscent of a potato being pulled out a bonfire on Guy Fawkes night. The salty roe dances on your tongue, and the beurre Blanc ensuring you have acidity cutting through, and of course a sauce to avoid any chance of dryness, providing the perfect balance for the overall composition. My bread was used to mop up the last of the Beurre Blanc – I am not proud !  The dish is pretty and stunning, and half the restaurant appeared to be  photographing a Potato on their respective tables, ensuring its iconic status continues. What is the world coming too !?

I am more a Famous than you are !

The second dish is smallish section of golden, gently fried skate wing, upon which are artfully balanced various additions to complete the dish. Morecombe bay shrimps giving it some saltiness and powerful seaside flavour, nasturtium, and some stuffed Chard, which I think had some nutmeg and other small pieces of fish/Shrimps inside. All this in a rich sauce of brown butter. All very delicate, well seasoned, and came together perfectly, if not all a little brown in colour !

Get your skates on !

The third and final savoury dish is a sliver – albeit a large sliver – of irradescent pink Duck breast. Have not quite seen Duck served in such a cut, but again it was a feast for the eyes. It was served on a Madeira sauce, and it’s golden Skin was covered in little blobs of Thyme and Honey Jelly, together with Timut Pepper – an ingredient new to me. Apparently this originates from Nepal, and is related to Sichuan Pepper, and gives a similar tingle on the tongue, but also a hint of grapefruit. Coupled with it was a little pastry boat of duck confit hiding underneath a carapace of thinly sliced grapes. The two styles of prepared duck were a joy and the only complaint from Mrs.W was that the duck skin had not been rendered enough for her and was too fatty. I benefitted as she sliced it away and added it my plate – Bonus !

I will take all the Duck Skin you can throw at me !

Two sweets complete the Mini Tasting Menu. The first should, I guess, be up there with the Potato as the restaurants Iconic Dish, as it is simply named “Core Apple”. You are presented indeed with an Apple, the glaze and shine reminiscent of a toffee apple. However it is basically a soft Jelly representing the Apple skin, but coloured in such a realistic way the texture actually surprises you. Inside you are treated to an Apple/ cider Mousse, and in the Centre are little pieces of prepared Caramelised apple, providing another texture and taste sensation. Again it is delicately prepared, not filling, and delicious. It reminded me in concept ( visually), a little of Hestons liver parfait resembling an orange as served at Dinner.

An Apple at Core – Surely not ?

Last up is Pear and Verbena – a construction of meringue and discs of pear which resemble a work of modern art. If it appeared in a museum as a modern piece of sculpture I would defy anybody to understand it was edible. It secretly contained a Pear William Sorbet, which when – guiltily destroying this little masterpiece – you crash through the meringue you are rewarded with its grainy but sugary zing.

Oh what a beautiful work of art

Five Courses completed and I must say the experience is one of perfection. The quality and quantity of food is all perfectly judged so you are not finishing the meal feeling bloated/ uncomfortable. Of course there are some little sweet snacks provided to finish the meal, Sweet Wine Jellies and tiny chocolate tartlets.

Drinks wise you are offered a wine pairing to go with either tasting menu at £95 per person. We opted for just a glass each of the 2016 Assyrtiko Estate from Santorini (£12.50 a glass ) to go with our first 2 courses. An old vine, lovely mineral white, perfect acidity, dry and crisp, and with enough body and character to carry itself with the flavours of the first few dishes. I Followed this by treating myself to a glass of 2012 Barolo Ravera, from Piedmont to go with my duck ( £23 a glass)-  an expensive little treat, but recommended by the very knowledgable and friendly Sommelier. In fact I realised towards the end of the meal the service had been impeccable because I had hardly noticed it, but we had not wanted for anything. Our glasses were never empty, our table cleared away efficiently and even the bill came minutes after being requested. Unobtrusively perfect.

On leaving the restaurant I asked our waiter if I could meet Clare. He responded yes of course, and took me straight into the kitchen without hesitation. We had a quick chat together and  I was quite taken by her modesty and charm. Not every kitchen would welcome you in such a way. Again all of the team were smiling and took a second to greet me as I entered the kitchen, notwithstanding the fact they were in the midst of creating more culinary perfection.

Last week I had been lipucky enough to have eaten at Kerridge’s in the Corinthia and had to rate it a 5. It was brassiere food on Steroids and quite outstanding. Core is a very different animal ( of fruit ?) , this is fine dining par excellence, but without the formality and stuffiness some people dread when visiting a highly rated 2 Michelin establishment. Both restaurants work for different occasions and with very different styles of food, and both are superb additions to London’s Gastronomic pedigree.

Rating – Food – Blazingly Hot Pan 5/5

               Service Effortlessly perfect 5/5 

Core by Clare Smyth, 92 Kensington Park Road, W11.

Tel 020 3937 5086

corebyclaresmyth.com

Holborn Dining Room – Rosewood Hotel, High Holborn.

Holborn Dining Room

No, I have not spelt the word wrong “Pyes” – this is the old English spelling from the 12th Century of what would have been a predominantly meat Pye. Initially designed as a storage vessel, the crust and pastry encasing the meat was there to protect and preserve the nutritious insides, and was often discarded as being simply the packaging. 9 centuries later and we arrive at Chef Calum Franklin, Executive Chef at the Rosewood Hotel, Holborn, who is making the humble Pie a piece of art work – playing right into the hands of today’s Instagramming hordes of Diners.

Indeed Chef Calum does not only have a selection of pies on his menu every evening but also has initiated a Pie Room that is selling upwards of a 100 pies a day for take away Monday to Friday. He is also behind an initiative to utilise the Hotels Courtyard as an Artisan market during the weekends, and is helping to teach old skills to younger chefs in his kitchen, who can work 5 at a time on one specific design for a pie. Calum Franklin himself has had experience in various restaurants but has been most recently employed as the Senior Sous Chef at Roast in Borough Market. Having been invited to take over the kitchens at the Rosewood, he apparently found an old Pate de Croute mould in the kitchens and was interested to discover how to fill it. This curiosity rapidly expanded to an obsession for design and structure of all things “Pye” and the Holborn Pie Room and the brasseries new Menu was born.

With some of Calum’s recipes now appearing in Newspapers and online, I, and many others have already tried to replicate them, and Calum has adapted some to assist the typical home chef, even utilising – dare I say it – shop bought Pastry – Sacre Blue !  or maybe as we are talking an Old English recipe, more appropriately, Gordon Bennet ! ( This is also a nod to my good French friend, A, accompanying me at the restaurant, and currently discovering the humour of “ Only fools and Horses” but being quite mystified by Delboys exclamations with reference to Mr. Bennet !)

To the restaurant itself. One end of the space – Entrance area- is occupied by a Gin Bar claiming to house approx 300 varieties of Gin and offering various cocktails derived from their voluminous stock. The remainder of the room offers itself as a dining space in what A described as a typical French brasserie style but “chicer” – think lots of brass and red leather. High ceilings and many little lampshades around giving it a buzzy but welcoming atmosphere. They can handle 200 covers an evening. I do recall this space from maybe 10 years ago when it was a restaurant by the name of a Pearl. It only stands out in my memory as I had a monkfish starter that so impressed me I asked – jokingly – if I could have the recipe, and at the end of the menu the Chef came our with a hand written A4 sheet with all ingredients and method. This is the first and only time I have experienced that – makes me think – where is that sheet of paper now ?

Anyway back to 2018 ! We are seated at a comfortable enough round table, meaning that 2 of us will get the comfy sofa and one of us the rickety chair. No surprises for guessing how that one went ! Upon presentation of the Menus the waiter informs us that the Curried Mutton pie is no longer available – that’s one of the 5 pies on offer already gone, and it’s only 19.30 ! Due to my haphazard stalking of Chef Calum on Instagram I know he has been on Honeymoon in Mexico – utilising the Rosewood Myokoba ( which I have also been lucky enough to visit), and enquire if he has yet returned. Unfortunately not the Waiter replies, so there goes my ambition of meeting with him and touring the kitchens – another time !

The menu is unexpectedly extensive, and in addition to the pies there is on offer a Cold Counter offering specialised English charcuterie ( Hackney Culatello anybody ?) , a Seafood Counter ( with all produces coming in from Padstow), and a wide ranging expanse of Starters and Mains. Not cheap, but we are in an expensive Hotel, so maybe I should not be surprised.

Jersey Rocks – and Rolls !

My other Dining companion ( C – also French), wants Oysters, and the Jersey Rocks are on the menu at £18 for half a dozen. Very traditionally served with the extras you would expect but all shunned by C who does not want Tabasco or Red Wine Vinegar corrupting the sweet juicy flesh of the molluscs. She is very happy with them,very fresh, not too salty and of reasonable size. C wanted a glass of White to wash them down, and the Sommelier here excelled himself with service and recommendations. He offered a Furmint from Hungary (£12 a glass) or a French Viognier (£18), but poured both and allowed all 3 of us to smell/ taste before C made her choice. Looking at the Reds to accompany our main courses, then the wine list was starting at around £45 a bottle. I advised our Sommelier I was interested in the Chatea Musar Cabernet blend from 2009. He provided a knowledgable and engaging story about the wine and how usually it is drunk young, but that he discovered a 2009 which he was impressed with and contacted the producer direct to secure a few cases. At £62 not something you would be drinking too many bottles of in one evening, but scanning down the list, this price was still at the bottom end but appeared to offer more value for money, and something a little different – which indeed it was. Peppery and Honey like on the nose, and more Pepper than honey on the palate, but very enjoyable and not what you would expect from a typical Bordeaux blend.

The humble Scotch Egg elevated to Fine Dining !

My starter choice was the Scotch Egg (£10) – but not any Scotch Egg. This was advertised on the menu as a Monkshill Farm Scott Egg which had been a Winner of the Scotch Egg Challenge. How can you resist a champion Scotch Egg ? The waiter explained it had been a Winner 2 years ago, and used Burford Brown Egg encased in a combination of White Pudding and ( I established later) pork sausage meat from the pig equivalent of Kobe Beef – a domesticated Mangalitsa Hungarian Pig. This was all nestling on a bed of Caper mayonnaise. Undoubtedly the best Scotch Egg I had ever experienced, with a golden creamy perfectly prepared yolk, and a delicate consistency of sausage meat that I was quite surprised about, elevating a Scotch Egg to a Fine Dining experience. Caper mayonnaise was also a wonderful salty accompaniment, and ensured the potential dryness of a Scotch Egg was avoided.

Taking into consideration I had chosen the restaurant due to its Pie status then my eyes would not allow me to linger elsewhere on the menu. The choices were Chicken, Girolle and Tarragon, Steak and Kidney ( using braised cheek), Hand raised Pork Pie ( Pork Shoulder, Smoked bacon, fennel seeds and sage), or a Vegetarian offer Of Potato, Comte and Caramelised Onion with Parsley Sauce.  All pies priced at £20 other than the Chicken at £22. We all individually reviewed the options, and then  incredibly all came up with the same choice – 3 Chicken pies. Not good for a reviewer as I can now only comment on 3 Chickens ! 

Elsewhere on the menu there were many options from Shrimp Burgers to Fish and Chips ( £19), Rare Breed Sirloins (£34) to Holborn Beef Burgers (£24) Not untypical of any variety you would come to expect in a Brasserie, and seemingly hoping to cater for its Global Hotel guests – from couples to families.

The Pies ? Good, but not exceptionally so. Visually perfect, sitting on a vibrant Pea Purée, Pastry excellent, interior –  chicken soft, good punch of Tarragon, but missing a little Oomph ? Something ? Maybe needed a stronger sauce, more girolles. Just seemed to lack something, to the extent I was thinking I could have made better at home ? Never a good thing when you paying £22 for the benefit. As mentioned, as we all went like sheep ( or chickens) for the same pie, I cannot comment on other pies, so it means a second visit to perform a proper critique. Do not misunderstand me, I enjoyed eating the pie, and it was a lovely feeling of comfort when doing so , but I just had a lingering doubt in my mind that I was expecting a little more.

Sides – nothing to shout about here !

The sides did not impress. A Green Garden Salad that went almost untouched. White Cabbage, Fennel and Apple slaw which was just boring, and Champ which is basically pimped up Irish mashed Potato. The later worked well with the Pie and Peas, but £5 for a small dish of mashed Pots ?

As reported on previous reviews, my friend A is a Dessert fiend, so whilst we were all pretty full from our Pies he was avidly perusing the sweets, anticipating dessert Pies, which were surprisingly non existent. The nearest you came to a Fruit Pie was a classic Tarte Tatin for 2 persons at £16. As an alternative he chose a Paris Brest, and with being French I realised A was the perfect Friend to ask – what is it ? . He explained that Paris – Brest was a cycling race, and the Dessert had been invented to celebrate, or commemorate this race, and in doing so was designed to resemble the wheel of a bicycle.

Paris Brest – apparently a Bicycle inspired Dessert

Basically it is a choice pastry cut open and spread with a creamy praline with hazelnuts inside and almonds outside. He enjoyed it, but he would enjoy anything sweet ! As we discussed, some people complain when they experience a sugar rush – he is the opposite – and needs to maintain the high levels of sugar in his body or he will experience a “sugar down” which could be fatal !

Not sticky enough toffee pudding

As C and I did not want to sit and watch A eat alone we ordered a Sticky Toffee Pudding to share, simply because C did not know if she liked this or not. It was served with a Tonka Bean Ice Cream, and was extremely rich, slightly overbearing on the cinnamon side, and relied heavily on its bed of caramel sauce to overcome its dryness. Ok, but not the best – not sticky enough for my liking !

Did we like the Holborn Dining Room ? Atmosphere was good for a Hotel Dining Room, and Service – especially from the Sommelier- was excellent. Food highlight for me was the Scotch Egg, Pies good, and enjoyed eating it, but a certain “ je ne sais quoi “ missing. On reflection maybe there is a certain aim towards the Hotels International guests – especially Americans as I really don’t think they are familiar with such Pies. For myself, maybe upon a return visit I can understand a little better, and would like to see the kitchens and the pie making at work. Come back Calum, your restaurant and I need you !

Rating       – Food          Hot Pan 3/5

                 – Service.    Very Hot Pan 4/5 

Holborn Dining Room, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN

Tel 0207 747 8633

holborndiningroom.com

Lupins – 66 Union Street SE1.

What a fantastic addition to the locality Flat Iron Square is ! It was launched as recently as October 2016 and has taken over seven railway arches between Southwark Bridge Road and Union Street, next door to the Menier Chocolate Theatre, and created a wonderful new Foodie Hub with bars, restaurants, food trucks and an intimate music venue – Omeara.

It also signals an ambitious new project called the Low Line ( how very Manhattan this is all sounding Flat Iron/ High Line ! ) which intends to initiate a world class walking route for tourists along the base of the rail viaduct at Bankside. Its aim is to link together neighbourhoods between London Bridge and Waterloo, Blackfriars and Elephant and Castle. Whilst this is a long term project, right now they have created an Alpine Ski Lodge in the open area of the square which looks pretty authentic, and I am sure will be highly popular during the coming Winter months. When you consider this was effectively an underused Car Park only 2 years ago, it is amazing what can be achieved over such a short period, and how an attraction bringing in thousands of people every day/night can be thoughtfully designed.

One of the relatively new restaurants on the Union Street side of the complex is Lupins where we were last night before seeing the current play at The Menier Theatre – Pack Of Lies. In fact I discovered Lupins earlier this year through a friends recommendation, and visited maybe 3 times in a month, so happy was I to find this little gem so close to my abode. However life is too short and there are too many restaurants opening all across London to spend a disproportionate time in one location, so I then promptly forgot all about it. Now thinking of where to eat before a show at the Menier, Lupins came to mind again, and appeared to be the perfect candidate being a 2/3 minute amble from the Stage Door.

The restaurant opened in May 2017 and was started up by Lucy Peddler and Natasha Cooke of Medlar in Chelsea fame, and they have created an English Tapas concept with seasonly changing menu. Ok not so original, but then again not an unattractive idea. The place is small. Very small. You enter basically into the kitchen area which on the right hand side opens up to a bar/ dining space that is vast, but nothing to do with Lupins. It’s the design of being under the Arches and Lupins shares its Toilet facilities, with a bar/restaurant space next door under the arch, which then interconnects to Omeara (Pub/ Music Venue) and to an outside space. As a Diner in Lupins you are directed upstairs to their tiny dining room which probably accommodates around 20 covers. It’s wooden Tables are small and close, but the room is light and bright with whitewashed walls and wooden floorboards and a large window overlooking the road. Food is delivered by a Dumb Waiter system from the kitchen downstairs.

On presentation of the menu the dishes are unrecognisable from my previous visits other than what appears to have become one of its signature dishes – the Cornmeal Spring Onions with Chipotle mayonnaise. I have had these on every single visit to date and tonight is no exception.

Don’t throw away the sweetest of roots !

They arrive at our table looking like a Scarecrows wig or a Zuchinni Fritte on testosterone. But they taste so sweet under the cornmeal crunch, and with the added kick from the Mayo,  are definitely something not to miss. You would not usually consider the roots of any Spring Onions you have at home – trim them off and throw away – but here the roots are the sweetest part and savoured.

Actually these Onions are from the Small plates part of the Menu (£7.50), and were preceded by a couple of items from the Snacks part of the Menu. First off, Cavola Nero and Gruyere Croquettes with Red Pepper (£5),  and then Game Pastillas with Cranberry Chutney (£6). Each dish consisted of two items, so perfect for a couple sharing.

Xmas is coming – bring on the Cranberries !

The Pastillas are a little greasy, but the pastry is delicately thin and crunchy encasing a mixture of Venison,Pheasant and Grouse, all nicely ground up and combined to give a very autumnal dish, and dipped into the Cranberry Chutney almost made me think of Xmas !

From memory there is always some kind of Croquettes on offer here and Cavola Nero being in them was a first for me. They shattered on cutting into them demonstrating a very good casing but the cheese and Greens were falling out all over the place make it a messy but tasty eat.

You just have to love any Croquette !

They also came sitting on a Red Pepper Sauce which gave some added depth of flavour and ensured the crust was not to dry. Further they were sprinkled with a sort of black Olive crush which added a little sweet/ saltiness, which when all combined in one mouthful really did work.

Now back to the Small Plates Menu, our next course was maybe our highlight ( well certainly for MrsW) – Linguine with Burrata, Wild Mushrooms and preserved Lemons (£10). This was constructed so there was a small portion of Burrata hiding under a hill of perfectly cooked linguini scattered with Wild mushrooms,  but concealing its real treasure – the aromatic taste of preserved lemons – not seen, but to the fore only when you tasted it.

Come to me you gorgeous Preserved Lemons !

These flavours worked like a dream, with the citrus coming through at the end of every forkful, and showed how you can use preserved lemons away from their traditional use in Middle East/Arabic recipes.

Keeping our menu choices away from meat to appease my better half, our final two dishes were fishy. First up Grilled Sardines with Salmoriglio and a Fennel Salad (£9). The little bones in these type of sardines can of course be offputting to some ( Mrs W included) but do not bother me.

Careful of these little Critters Bones !

I was unsure what the Salmoriglio Sauce would be, but upon the dishes arrival appreciated it to be a concoction of Parsley, Garlic,Olive Oil, Lemon Juice and Oregano. It was extremely pungent, powerful and garlicky but complimented the Sardines perfectly, with the crunchy Fennel cutting through everything keeping it all fresh in the mouth.

The Final Course ( before Dessert) was a Cornish Crab Thermidor (£9). Wasn’t sure what to expect in terms of presentation here – half a crab, or a crab shell with Thermidor Sauce a la Lobster ?

What’s not to like – Crab Thermidor on Garlic Toast

But no, this came with the crab in a little dish smothered in the Thermidor Sauce, whacked under a Grill, and accompanied by some really garlicky toasted sourdough to mop it all up with. I could easily eat a whole bowl of this with the bread, and have that as a very satisfying supper at home – now there’s an idea, just have to work out the recipe?  Anyway this was well received and luckily enough it was last on the menu as if it arrived first we may have had to order two to prevent a crab scuffle ensuing !

Surprisingly for me Mrs.W wanted to try a Dessert, but insisted it be the Chocolate option rather than the Cherry Creme Brûlée on offer. And oh gosh was the woman right. Not ordinarily a Sweet person myself, but the Dark Chocolate Ganache with Sesame and Salted Caramel was a revelation to behold.

Happy Ending – Lupins Style

Two generous Quenelles of velvety chocolate surrounded by a generous swirl of caramel with, I think, also a dusting of honeycomb was greedily finished off, notwithstanding the fact we both had felt full after our crab. Very good indication of the quality of the Dessert. Excellent value for £6.

What did we drink? Only a modest Carafe of Douro from Portugal but ashamedly forgot to take note of its details. However a good price at £19 and indeed the whole wine list is reasonably priced with half a dozen Reds/ Whites available by glass/Carafe, and the high end wines being at a level of £50/60 a bottle. Only comment I would make is that a couple of reds/ Whites from UK would not have gone a miss, with the only Domestic produced wine on offer being a sparkling Brut from Harrow and Hope at £62. At least the Beers on offer are all from London supporting the local Breweries!

As you can have seen from the prices mentioned above, this is a restaurant that is very reasonably priced meaning that you could eat there regularly without breaking the bank. We probably ate more than enough ( to ensure I sampled various dishes to write about) and spent £82. I feel you could eat here and be easily pleased for £50 between 2, plus whatever alcohol you wished for on top. Very good value for money.

Service was very attentive and friendly and food was generally excellent, if not too complicated. However sometimes a good quality simple experience is all you need. If you are in the area you could do far worse, and if you are visiting the Menier, it is ideal. ( The show was excellent by the way- recommend that too – acting first rate).

Rating – Food    – Very Hot Pan 4/5

                 Service – Blazingly Hot Pan 5/5

Lupins, 66 Union Street, London SE1 1TD

Tel 0203 908 5888

lupinslondon.com

You can even sit outside if you can cope with the wild tunnel effect !

Gunpowder – Indian Smash and Go!

People who know me – and luckily for the Worlds Gene Pool there are not many that suffer this terror – appreciate that I am a bit of a thespian. Not that I have dared to tread the boards myself but that I am a keen, enthusiastic supporter of the Theatrical arts in terms of attending shows on a regular basis. Indeed I maintain a record of every show I go to ( or have for the past 5 years anyway) and I average between 45-50 shows a year, which even I can understand puts me in some kind of Victorian Hall of entertainment almost once a week, every week all year round. That must qualify me for being a Theatre critic – No ? Note to self – Must look up the opportunities there !

Anyway, when walking towards London Bridge Station Saturday afternoon I noticed a Gentleman walking towards me looking a lot like the British treasure and Academy awarded Actor Mr.James Broadbent. In the knowledge I was attending a Theatrical extravaganza that very evening at The London Bridge Theatre starring same Mr.Broadbent then his appearance so close by should not come as a huge surprise, but anyway, to walk by him some hours before seeing him on stage was a pleasant coincidence. Coincidence or fate ?

Walking into Gunpowder Restaurant at 6.15 a few hours later for a pre – Theatre Dinner,  who should be sitting alone at a table to the side of us – none other than the same MrBroadbent, with obviously the same idea as us – filling up with spices before the show ! I would not dare to disturb this acting Icon during his intake of Gunpowder’s finest Indian cuisine, but as he finished up and was undoubtedly about to take the long walk to his dressing room  – I would guess about 25 metres – to appear within the hour as Hans Christian Anderson, I felt I had to say something. Words were exchanged, very pleasant ones in fact, and he ended up by saying that this evening was only the second show, they had changed things from the first evening, and that he hoped we would be forgiving ! What a charming and modest man, and his demeanour warmed me to him even more ! Now I have got this little star struck episode out of the way I can concentrate on the job at hand – that of reviewing Gunpowder – the restaurant that shall always be known, henceforward, as the one where I had dinner with the famous Mr.James Broadbent !

Gunpowder started its life as a no booking tiny restaurant just off Spitalfields market, and whilst the non booking policy had delayed my attendance there,  I had visited, and had been mightily impressed. Further establishments owned by the same people behind it – Madame D’s and Gil and Sepoy also opened within a 100 metre radius of the original restaurant, specialising in specific regional foods. I had not managed to visit these when I read that they had already closed, but more or less at the same time it was announced that Gunpowder would be opening a second site at the One Tower Bridge complex – a stone throws away from my residence – marvellous !

It is along the same windy corridor that houses The Ivy, By Chloe and Tom Simmons, and enters a complex that surrounds the aforementioned Bridge Theatre that is now becoming a bit of a gastronomic destination, with Rosas Thai, the wonderful Coalshed, and Prosecco House already in operation, and others to open in the near future. Being part of the new complex it shares the same glass fronted non descript box as others, is over two floors and has tables millimetres apart  – Almost resembling a modern style greasy Joes cafe. When I say this there is of course lots of polished wood and comfy looking booths at the back, but I know a few Greasy Joes designed in the same way – hence it resembles a sleeker updated model of the same. It certainly gives the impression it is ready for a quick turnaround of diners, and serves like one too. Nothing against that if all you are looking for is a rapid intake of spices, but I am going for – not a place to linger over a long leisurely Dinner.

A quick dinner was certainly all that was required for this first visit as we had pencilled in an hour 15 minutes before taking our seats around the corner for our evenings entertainment. We need not have worried timewise. We were seated, given menus, provided with the requested tap water and the requested bottle Dunk IPA (£5) for me, and we were ordering within minutes.

What’s needed to combat the Spices !

After being asked if it was our first visit, and establishing that we had been to the original Spitalfields site, we were advised it was more or less the same concept and food – sharing plates – Ta -Dah ! How very original. Excuse the irony – but the sharing plates did look good ! So first off we ordered the Vermicelli Venison Spiced doughnut (£5) and Chicken Lollipops Madras Style (£6).

A Hedgehog or a Testicle you decide !

The doughnut arrived looking like a huge golden hairy testicle with a little side dish of fiery sauce. Cutting it open it did look and taste rather spectacular and whilst I was enjoying the spicy sauce Mrs.W thought it was a little over powering. However she has less of a constitution for spicy food, so whilst I was busy enjoying this she went for the chicken lollipops, which were three little chunks of the bird sitting on the end of a bone smothered in a more modestly spiced madras sauce.

Lollipops – Chicken Style

The chicken skin was glutinous and fatty and complimented the sauce beautifully and actually represented quite a generous portion for the price. Next up came the half portion of the Sigree grilled Mustard Broccoli (£6.50) which was definitely Mrs.W’s cup of tea. It came with a huge knife standing proudly piercing the centre of the Vegetable.

Stabbed Broccoli

Not a huge fan of this fibrous Veg, but must admit it was very well prepared, not over cooked, nice crunch and for me the mustard sauce did its job – masking the taste of the Broccoli! However it was also over spiced according to Mrs.W and she was already getting a little concerned.

Karwari Soft Shell Crab (£9) followed, and it’s appearance was almost as though it had been frozen in time – it was looking so intact and crab like I was sure it was still alive and would run off the plate, balancing the lime wedge on its back, as it scuttled under the table. However as I pulled a claw there was no movement and I realised it had been prepared just perfectly. Velvety White crab meat inside , a little spice in the sauce on top and a squeeze of lime to counter this.

It’s running away !

One of the famous dishes in the original restaurant is the Maa’s Kashmiri Lamb Chops and these are also on offer here. You must order a minimum of 2 (£7.50 each) but they are amazing. They arrive as two little babies huddled together, Glistening pink inside, charred in all the right places and accompanied by a vibrant Coriander sauce.

My beautiful 2 little babies !

These ended up both on my plate as Mrs.W does not eat lamb ( oh, I forgot !) and were enjoyed to the full, however even I was getting concerned about the amount of food already eaten when the last dish arrived. A huge plate of Aunty Sulu’s Wild Rabbit Pulao which was priced at £15 – more of a main course as described to us – and indeed it was a healthy looking portion of food despite me not knowing who Aunty Sulu is – but I am sure she cooks well ! Chunks of rabbit, some on the bone, some off, so you need to be careful, fried onions, spicy rice and little jewels of berries – unsure what they were ( Barberrys ?) but they gave a welcome juicy fruitiness to the intensely aromatic dish. My first mouthful just screamed and exploded cardamom to me, and then cinnamon, and then spicy hotness. Again too much for Mrs.W, and enough to prompt me to order Dank IPA Number 2.  I was thoroughly enjoying the mouthfeel the spice was providing and also grateful Rabbit was being used in Indian cooking, but with no assistance from Mrs.W the dish was to defeat me in terms of quantity. We had seen others taking out food if they were similarly defeated, and whilst the Manager advised us he could not take any responsibility for allowing us to take out the food (especially rice, which is understandable) the beauty of living a 2 minute walk away is that we could deliver our “Doggy bag” home before attending the show

Can anyone introduce me to Aunty Sulu ?

Unfortunately this review cannot be regarded as comprehensive as no dessert was sampled, or indeed no wine this time around. However from the relatively small menu a least half the dishes were tried and I enjoyed them all. Quickly served, quality ingredients and a great thump of spice in every dish – other then the lamb which was more delicately prepared. On the other hand the level of spice was too much fur Mrs.W, so it is down to personal taste. However Gunpowder sits in the middle of Indian Fine Dining establishments such as Indian Accent/ Gymkhana and the traditional  good local Indian. It has a place, a niche, and represents excellent preparation and cooking with twists on old Indian traditional food, and new dishes which do not disappoint. They serve you quickly and then you are ready to move on. In our case moving on to see Mr.Broadbent on stage. I hope he enjoyed his visit there to as he will be appearing at The Bridge for 12 weeks, and therefore could become more than familiar with the menu.

What did we think of the show ? Well, it’s in preview so I don’t want to give the game away. It is written by Martin McDonagh who wrote The Lieutenant of Inishmore that finished its West End run recently, and was the Writer,Producer and Director of Three Billboards outside Ebbing Missouri amongst others.  I will say however it represents intriguing new writing, is a macabre fantasy studded with black humour that manages to point a humorous finger at England, Belgium and even Trump, hysterical in places, mind boggling in others, and has such an unbelievable pretext which the writer anticipates or expects you indulge him in, and if you do not you may struggle with the whole concept of the play. There, I think I have said enough without giving you a clue what it is all about !

Gunpowder Rating  – Very Hot Pan 4/5

Service 5/5 

Gunpowder, 4 Duchess Walk, London, SE1 2SD

Gunpowderlondon.com

The Bridge Theatre – A very,very,very Dark Matter Rating – Also 4/5 ! 

Indian Accent Interior

Review of Indian Accent – 31 August 2018.

High end Indian street food in the form of expensive fine dining seems to be all the rage in Knightsbridge these days. Of course there have been well established quality Indian restaurants in the area for decades – Veeraswamy, Chutney Mary, Atul Kochars excellent Benares – and a few years ago Gymkhana opened to exalted reviews. In the meantime Dishooms appears to be going from strength to strength, and Gunpowder has just opened its second location –  all a far cry from a drunken Midnight Vindaloo in Brick Lane.

The British appetite for Indian food appears to be insatiable, and this is surely one of the reasons why relative newcomers Tandoor Chophouse,Bombay Bustle and the subject of this review – Indian Accent, are all busy, receiving equal critical acclaim and attention. So with this in mind a visit with my 3 best restaurant buddies was set up to try out one of the new pretenders to the Indian Crown.

This is the third Indian Accent in the world with the Original in New Delhi since 2009, which is listed in the Worlds best 50 restaurants. The second set up in New York in 2015. In London it is down the road from Gymkhana and therefore has one of its major contemporaries or competitors as a near neighbour.

On entering, the restaurant is shiny and dimly light with touches of green velvet – very Mayfair – the type where you need the torch on your phone to read the menu. Not a criticism but an observation. There are nicely designed booths for 4 and we are seated at one of these. Very comfortable , lots of space and a good feeling of privacy. A cursory look at the drinks menu immediately reminds you of your location with the wine list displaying some extortionate prices ( especially on the French wine). My friends as always want to start with bubbles but to our dismay a glass of Moet is priced at £18 and even a sparkling Vouvray £14 ! We consider ordering 3 glasses of the Vouvray, however as the Sommelier points out it would be better value to purchase a bottle at £60. I am not following the bubbles gang and plump for a bottle of Jaipur IPA but this also comes in at a rather staggering £7.

As to the Food Menu then we are advised of the options, namely 3 courses for £55, 4 courses for £65 or the tasting menu at £85. It is a confusing read as many of the words attached to recognisable ingredients are mysterious and clearly of Indian ethnic styles,sauces and ingredients. No Bhajis, Tandori’s, Jalfrazzis, or Pilaus in sight ! We are asked the usual “any questions about the menu” to which we did clarify a few unknown dishes and also requested a swap on one of the main dishes from the a la Carte to the tasting menu which they kindly said they could accommodate. However we were then abandoned and nobody took the actual order without being asked twice to do so –  an inauspicious start and not the service levels you would expect in a high class location such as this. Once we were in position to order, and wanting to sample the best of the restaurants dishes, we plumped for the tasting menu, which to all intents and purposes appeared to be of better value too.

Baby Roquefort Nan

First up is our Amuse Bouche ( so already 9 courses extended to 10) which is a dainty mini circle of Nan Bread accompanied by a Chorba – coconut and pumpkin soup. The soup is a little fiery as it goes down and the Nan is delicately stuffed with a blue cheese – really, is it Roquefort ? Yes, and it’s fabulous. French /Indian ?! Already forgetting the slow uptake on the initial ordering. Very fickle, me! This is closely followed by the official first course of the tasting menu – 5 waters – or Puchkas to the uninitiated.

5 Puchka Waters

It is Basically 5 small shot type glasses containing various liquids that you need to pour into a small crispy sphere of pastry and then eat in one before it leaks all over the table or down your shirt. A spicy Coriander/Beef concoction, followed by Tamarind,Smokey Pineapple,Pomegranate and Yoghurt. Fun to eat, and all tasty. First time experiencing these.

Potato Spere Chat

Then a crispy potato sphere chat with some white pea mash ( thought they were chickpeas) and a small slice of watermelon to freshen it up. Good textures and explained to us as real Indian Street Food. What then follows is an outstanding Kashmiri Morel coated in Walnut powder with a Parmesan Papad ( like a baby poppadum). The morel stood proudly, was huge, and was stuffed with tiny small diced morels and spices. It was incredible, earthy, nutty, and, we determined from the Waiter, was actually from Northern India, and they have them flown in on a daily basis. Incomparable to any other morel eaten before.

The best Morel ever !

It just so happened at this stage of the evening one of my dining partners LadyD was discussing being a woman of low morals, whereas the  Morels presented in front of us were certainly of quite a distinguished class. Indeed I would have been happy to sacrifice all of my so called Morals for another Indian Accent Morel all day long !

This was followed by a baked Cod Amritsari – a sort of tandoori Cod, followed by another outstanding dish – Soy Keema, Quail Egg, and Lime Leaf Butter Pao. It was served in a little clay pot with a spear of bread sticking out of the lid so that you could mop up the insides. What the pot contained looked and tasted like spicy mincemeat with a little blob of a quails egg floating happily in the middle.

Are you sure no meat ?!

But there was no meat – had to double check this with the waiter – but was assured it was all Soya, Fenugreek and Mustard Seeds, Amazing. Whilst C and I tucked into this LadyD and JJ had opted for the sweet pickle pork rib which literally fell off the bone by just looking at it. Wow, the power of a hungry stare ! Happy faces all round.

Then a quick pallet cleanser – Ankara Chuski- or a pomegranate ice lolly to you and I – before moving on to the main courses. I had opted for the Chicken Malai Tikka which was 3 pieces of succulent meltingly soft lightly spiced Chicken with a green chilli cream, sugar snap peas and truffle ! Gorgeous and again a little feeling of a clash of cultures – Indian meets French cuisine and the marriage was one made in heaven. Other dishes chosen were a sea bream (beautifully presented ) and the scallops from the a la Carte.

All of the main courses were accompanied by a black dairy Dahl, Wasabi Yoghurt and a choice of Kulcha – basically like stuffed Nans. The really original examples  involved a bacon one and a black pudding one ! Orgasmic stuff ! Again a little bit of East meeting West resulting in a wonderful clash of tastes !

Give me more

On to dessert and first up was what tasted like a little almond cloud with crunchy sugar pieces and a hint of saffron. On the menu it read “ Makhan Malai, Saffron Milk, Rose Petal Jaggery Brittle and Almonds” so I think my more basic description was about right !

Almond Saffron Cloud !

To finish off a fusion of classic English and Indian – a Doda Barfi (Condensed Milk) Treacle Tart And Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. 2 sticks of chocolate guarding the insides. Sweet and sticky and very moorish. Thankfully fairly modest in size.

Treacle Tart !

We were washing all of the above down with a White Rioja – a 2007 Viura, R.Lopez de Heredia, Vina Gravonia. This was £45 on the wine list and much better value than the French listed wines and I am guessing less popular or known to the restaurant clientele. This is a wine that is stored in oak for up to 4 years and the result is almost Amber in colour, almost sherry like, with a good rounded body and a slightly buttery, nutty, honey taste and went beautifully with the food. Bearing in mind the retail cost of this bottle is around £20 then the mark up was not as high as many other listed wines. Must have been good as we managed to get through 3 of them! Slight issue again with service here as it is one of those restaurants who hide your wine in an ice bucket far,far away and they did not pay enough attention to when we needed topping up, requiring us to remind them – this is a real bugbear of mine !

Whilst settling up we were approached by Casper the Manager to ensure we had had a good night. We advised the food was exquisite and were mighty impressed but also highlighted the few service issues. Casper mentioned he had only joined a month ago from a Michelin starred establishment and that none of the serving staff at this restaurant had worked in one with such an accolade. One of his jobs is to ensure the Service standards were improved to this level. He was very hopeful that they would get a star this coming October. For the food I would not be surprised, but the service needs to ramp up to match it. The food at Indian Accent is extremely impressive ( very different to Gymkhanas style, more delicate , not so filling) the service will be improved (or maybe we were just unlucky on our night ?) and it’s a shame the drinks are so overpriced. If you could pick up the restaurant and drop it into Shoreditch or Dalston etc the prices would probably drop by 50% or so on the alcohol and that would make it a perfect restaurant. However definitely worth going for out of this world Indian with many twists and turns, and an unusual array of ingredients embracing cheeses and meats from Uk/France to carve out its own specific identity in what is becoming a crowded culinary area of expertise.

Indian Accent 16 Albermarle  Street, London ,W1S 4HW

Tel 0207 629 9802

Rating : Food – Blazingly Hot 5/5

Service 3/5 

Strange Decor of Restaurant.

You always know when you screw up and Sunday was one of those times. However much I wanted to blame other factors I knew deep inside it was my fault- albeit (here I go again making excuses for myself !) Who can predict English weather ?

Mrs W and I had been talking for weeks, months , dare I say years, about visiting Columbia Road flower market. It’s literally a 45 minutes walk from our flat and is there for the taking each and every Sunday. So we have a Bank Holiday coming up and I had not organised anything for the long weekend. By the time it had occurred to me and we had vaguely started to discuss a potential weekend away, any decent Hotel in the UK we had looked at was fully booked or were asking for £650 a night ! The thought of spending 6 hours moving at 3mph on the M25 also discouraged the idea. A weekend away in Europe ? A week beforehand all flights are booked or again seeking ridiculous sums of money and of course the airports would be experiencing one of their busiest days of the year – wouldn’t It be so nice to chill out at home together and not have to worry about all this potential hassle and eye wateringly crazy prices ? Yes. Agreed. So it appears I have got away with not organising anything for the weekend (phew!) but now had to think of something entertaining for a chill out weekend. And this is how my plan to visit Columbia Road is formulated.

Now as we all know we have been experiencing one of the driest hottest summers on record, and each and every Sunday during the past few months have been glorious. It’s now Bank holiday weekend – I put our plan into action and we set off for our adventure into Hackney. It is dry but the sky is looking a little ominous. We manage the walk there without being rained on, but literally as soon as we arrive and spy the first Sunflower the heavens open. If you have visited this cornucopia of plants and flowers you will know it is a little busy and rather cramped. There is literally 2 metres of space between the stalls which contains three lines of people – one each of stationary people looking or buying, and one narrow line of people moving – very, very slowly.  It is not conducive to keeping dry during a downpour – not helped by people with prams the size of Range Rovers or people who are prepared ( or more prepared than I) with umbrellas zigzagging dangerously hither and thither. We got wet. We got soaked. Then we got wet again. Probably the first Sunday in months that Columbia Road had seen a spot of rain and it’s the same Sunday that after years of planning I decide we should be there. The saving grace ? I had Pre booked lunch in The Marksman Public House.

This local favourite was another spot that had been on my radar for years but I had always thought the Flower market and pub should go hand in hand, notwithstanding friends recommending it to me for many years. It is owned and run by Tom Harris ex St Johns Hotel where he attained a Michelin Star and Jon Rotherham ex Jamie Oliver’s 15. It is very much an old fashioned boozer downstairs, with lots of polished wood and Gents propping up the bar as if they live there. Our table was booked for 12.30 but by 12.00 we were so cold and wet were already in the pub looking for hot food and a roof over our head. The main restaurant is upstairs and first impressions were a little frustrating in that, admittedly we were 30 minutes early, we were advised the kitchen had only just opened and therefore were asked to take a seat at the bar and we would be called in 10/15 minutes. Whilst a swift pint is always welcome others arriving were being taken immediately upstairs. 5 minutes of this was enough and a further approach was made requesting to be seated post haste due to our bedraggled condition – this time thankfully, positively responded to.

The upstairs room came as a bit of a surprise as it just seemed out of step with everything downstairs. A rather sparse Scandinavia style room with a weird ceiling (Carpeted?). However we were warmly welcomed and provided with a menu which we read through quickly determined to get some hot food ASAP.

Basically the menu has 4 snacks on offer including some Black treacle sourdough for £4 which we ordered. 4 starters and 4 main courses with 3 options for sharing between 2. These options looked great – a Roast Chicken with beans and Aioli, A Chicken, leek and tarragon pie, and a Hereford T- Bone plus a Yorkshire pudding which we were advised would involve 1Kg of meat and would be a £30 supplement to the 2 course deal at £29 a head. However as Mrs.W hardly does red meat these days, 1Kg of Beef for one would be a little over the top, or so methinks. Therefore for starters we selected a Sweetcorn Soup with Brown Crab Toast and a Pigs Cheek and Potato pie. ( I missed out on what is supposedly a legendary beef and barley bun with horseradish as a snack, but next time!). Other options were Cured Mackerel with Pickled Fennel and Saffron, or Courgette, Sunflower Seeds and Salt Lemon.

Hot and inviting Sweetcorn Soup

The Soup was a bowl of hot and inviting deeply coloured orange/yellow thick liquid with bits of charred corn floating around an island of pink crab mayonnaise kept afloat by its toasted little boat. Mrs W extremely happy with it – good depth of taste, the morsels of corn giving it a bit of texture and taste remanent of bbq corn on the cob.

Cheeky little number !

My pie was accompanied by pickled cabbage in a piquant mustard sauce with yellow pickled beans that complimented the meaty cheeks and soft potato/ pastry just right.

If I could not have my 1Kg of Beef then I had no other choice than to order the traditional Roast Hereford Beef which would come with Carrots, Roast Pots and Horseradish Cream. The beef was succulently rare in the middle ( albeit I was not asked how I wanted it done), the carrot roasted to perfection – soft and sweet- and Roasties pretty good too( albeit not up to mine at home !)

Hereford Beef

The Horseradish Cream just the right amount of hotness, nicely judged, the only disappointment was that the gravy was a little thin, tasteless and portion wise, a little ungenerous. Could of asked for more but was not impressed enough to do so.

Mrs W went for the Cod, Mussels and Sea Purslane – again scored a high five with her choice. Large piece of skinless cod steak, beautifully moist and prepared – albeit I thought upside down presentation wise ?- a lovely sauce/ broth requiring a spoon to be requested to finish it all, and rounded off by the herby/ salty Purslane, almost having a nutty and crunchy finish to it.

Upside down Cod ?

Other choices on the menu involved a great looking slow cooked Tamworth Belly Ham with Cocoa Beans and Roasted Onion, and a Veggie option of Celeriac Tart with Braised Mushroom.

Both portions were large and a dessert almost seemed to be off the cards until we spied a dish of Nectarines with Iced Almond that we thought we could just about manage between two – £4 supplement to go up to a three course dish. The Nectarines just ripe, sweet, soft, refreshing, singed by a blow torch ( or grill) and accompanied by a type of Almond Granita.

Nectarines with Almond Ice

We accompanied the meal with a Carafe of Portuguese Dao which was fruity, had soft Tannins and just enough body to combat the Roast Beef, good value at £19. Bill for 2 ( including a glass of Rose for Mrs W) – £ 90 plus service. Would be a good idea to return to test the menu away from Sunday Lunch which is sometimes not representative of a restaurants full capabilities.

We came away dry, sated and very happy with our meal other than a few minor adjustments being required. Mainly Gravy ! So I had been forgiven for not organising a weekend away or for being responsible for the deluge that had descended upon us, and we had even bought 3 Succulents for a tenner – Bargain meal, Bargain plants !

The Marksman Public House, 254 Hackney Road, E27SJ.

tel 0207 739 7393

Rating – Food 4/5 Very Hot Pan

Service 4/5

Black Axe Mangal – revisit. Brief Review/ Overview.

Two weeks ago I visited BAM on a one off evening launching the new “Where Chefs Eat” publication where the food on offer was representative of a potential new menu and was to an extent experimental. As good as it was I was curious to sample the type of food the restaurant usually prepares, and therefore I made an undertaking to revisit in two weeks time – and guess what, I kept my word !

I was arriving after an evening at the Almedia Theatre and of course was a hopeful walk in – being a No reservations kind of establishment. Fortunately there were a few tables available and I settled in with a view to trying as much on the menu as possible. In fact reading through the menu I wanted everything, such were the delights on offer. The Owner/ Chef Lee Tiernan remembered me from a few weeks back and we exchanged a few words before he saw what I had ordered and advised me I was being “ambitious “ !  I started with a snack from a menu that was showcasing its more usual offerings – Crispy pig skin with burnt Lime. At £4 this was a generous dish of crisp but soft, sort of, Pork Scratchings.

Pig Skin ? Yes please !

Not the potential tooth breaking Scratchings on offer in some establishments but soft fat with a crisp skin on one side and extremely moorish – perfect as a Beer snack. Probably the best pig skin I have ever had.Curious about the “Fricken Rabbit” but that would have to wait until another visit !

Blood Sausage Bao

Then a blood sausage Bao Bun crammed with burnt baby leeks and a spiced sauce. I am a big black pudding fan but this Sausage was a little different to the puddings I have eaten – maybe rightly so as it is a blood sausage and not black pudding, subtle difference. Was good, quite earthy, went well with the chewy bun and was a great alternative to a hot dog.

Keeping to the meat my next course was for me the star attraction – Marrow Bone flat bread. I was unsure what to expect- a stuffed flatbread or what ?  Actually it was a flatbread on the side with 2 Flintstone sized Veal Bones – a la St.Johns –  filled with melting roasted marrowbone and an oxtail and herb topping, with a side salad of parsley,tomato,and chilli.

I could eat this every day forever !

Very rich and very meaty and great fun scooping out the marrow and meat and spreading onto the flatbread. As a marrowbone fan this was heaven to me and I would have been happy to eat this without any other dishes on an evening out, maybe every night for the rest of my life !

I was actually already full by now having had a couple of cans of pale ale on the side to help me get through the first 3 courses, but now I was being hit by their sliced pork chop and a salad of watermelon, pickled Ginger, and Thai Basil. Lovingly grilled, juicy sides of fat to give it even more taste, and a fresh side salad to at least help you believe you were eating healthily.

Pork with a healthy side salad !

Fantastic smokey, grilled/charred taste, and I was just able to finish it after I was advised that they could have given me a take away box. I am not one for “Doggy Bags” so I took it upon myself as a challenge to finish it and was pleased with myself for doing so, but even more pleased for BAM and chef Lee who’s food and vibe is, as said before,  totally unique. Maybe the restaurants Offerings and atmosphere are a bit too heavy, manly, meaty and noisy for some – tattoos more than welcome –  but as Nirvanas “Drain You” started blasting from the Speakers as I was about to leave, my feelings were very much those of this being my Nirvana – or at least one of them !

Rating – Food upped to a 5 from a 4 two weeks back – yes,  that good !