When you read reviews exclaiming “ There is nothing like this elsewhere in London” or quotes about the food that include “ If unicorns were real and had a shit, then this is what it would look and taste like” (thanks to Food Critic Website The Infatuation) , then your curiosity is spiked. Mine has been so spiked for sometime, and I cannot believe it has taken me years to arrive at this Heavy Metal Rock and Roll Temple of Food on the corner of a roundabout at Highbury and Islington. In fact my delayed visit is over 2 years old as Lee Tiernan ( Chef And Owner ) set up in this tiny cramped location – which in size maybe more suited as a hairdressers – back in September 2015 after a successful run of his Pop Up Eatery in a Copenhagen nightclub. Now how many people can put that on their CV as to the genesis of their restaurant ?
Lee runs this tiny 25 covers Restaurant with his wife Kate as Co Business Partner. Lees background includes an 11 year stint with Ferguson Henderson at St.Johns where he worked his way up to Head Chef in 2011 – an experience which would have him experimenting with Offal for many years. In conversation with Lee last night he admitted that when starting up Black Axe Mangal – BAM – he did not have the confidence to put his own creations on the Menu and started off with a kind of Turkish Fusion theme with pimped up Kebabs etc even though he knew nothing about Turkish Food and had never been there. In fact he had approached some Turkish restaurants that he admired and asked if he could work there to gain experience and understand about the style and way of cooking the Nations delicacies, but had been rejected – which now he says is a blessing in disguise as he was forced into putting his own take on the food. The Menu has now developed into something more original, and reflects the food that Lee wants to cook and – to his pleasure and delight – cannot be pigeonholed. However more about that later.
What had finally prompted me to visit BAM was a special evening in partnership with Book publishers Phaidon Who we’re launching their brand new edition of their bible like tome “ Where Chefs Eat” – a Culinary Global map to restaurants where supposedly famous Chefs hang out. This is not a Michelin Star Fine Dining Directory , but one that mashes up Cheap Fantastic Eateries, Street Food And other affordable Dining options together with the more established wallet swallowing Restaurants that are more frequently reviewed/ critiqued. The book was to be presented by food critic and founder of Worlds 50 Best Restaurants – Joe Warwick. In fact upon arrival for our 8.30 slot it was Joe who we first encountered – who appeared to be doubling up as Barman – as he presented us with our first cocktail of the night a Bullit Frontier Lemonade with a punchy Bourbon base.
Frontier Bulleit Lemonade
The restaurant itself has no Big Sign or Logo outside and looks completely nondescript – I would have walked straight past it had I not been following Google Maps !
We were guided to a seat at the bar, which I often prefer as you are close to the action, can see what’s going on in the kitchen and get to talk with the Chefs. Here we were literally facing the enormous Pizza Like Oven which dominated the tiny food Prep area with just a smallish grill over coals by the side and not much else. Cramped was not the word for it – room enough for Lee to be working at the oven and an assistant to be working the grill and that was it. Cats would not be swinging here tonight !
A special menu had been set for this event which was also giving Lee the opportunity to showcase new dishes never tried before by his discerning customers – other than the first course which was the very Instagrammable Squid Ink FlatBread with Egg Yolk Smoked Cods Roe and Glitter – why not glitter ! This is the dish that the Unicorn quote above was referring to, and a posse of “ Unicorn Shit” came out of Lees Kiss ( The Band) emblazoned Oven all looking beautiful together.
Gene Simmons and Co emblazoned on the Oven
What is the collective noun for a grouping of Unicorn Shit or Squid Ink Flat Breads ? A herd ? A Gaggle ? A murder ? Unfortunately these were to share between 2 and whilst difficult enough to cut in half – with of course the majority of the runny yolk being enjoyed by only one of the dishes sharers – it was barnstormingly delicious with the salty cods roe coating your mouth as you chewed on the tasty doughy flat bread, simply leaving you wanting for more.
Squid Ink Flatbread
This would be the only familiar course and the next would be a new one – Tete Au Cochon – which for non Francophiles is Pigs Head – served with Shoestring Fries, Mapo Tofu ( large dice of soft bean curd ) which when all was coated in the Szechuan Pepper Sauce, hit the brain with a spice kick like a sledgehammer. The only complaint again was that there was not enough of the unctuous Pigs Head. More more more !
Tete Au Cochon
The Head had apparently had been brined the day before, thereafter being boiled, pressed into a Terrine and then oven baked just before service. Not a dish you will see on many menus but one that will probably be around at BAM for a while.
Whilst finishing the Pigs Head we could see and smell ( only being a metre or so away from the grill) the Hispi Cabbage getting its arbitrary treatment of being charred to a blacked death. This would accompany Grilled Lamb Tongues and a Fermented Shrimp Butter. Personally I am a fan of many Offal type cuts but I have always struggled with the texture of tongue.
Lambs Tongue
It was quite pungent in its taste but when smothered in the juices from the Hispi, the buttery Shrimp ( paste of which Lee said was smuggled in from Asia?) and some salty Bonito scattered on top was quite moorish and I could even have been converted – notwithstanding textural issues !
An Oompah Loompah cocktail which contained more Bulleit Bourbon and Ginger Ale, and then Dessert – an absolutely wonderful creation of Foie Gras Ice Cream smothered in Cherry Sauce enclosed in a sugary doughnut. It resembled a hamburger of sorts, but tasted nothing like one – anyone who likes Foie Gras and Ice Cream would have been in Heaven and I hope there will be plenty of these waiting for me at the pearly gates when I finally arrive there as it was quite spectacular in its creation. A creamy Foie Gras cold hit to the tongue , sweet silky cherries and then an after sugar buzz with the chewy doughnut. What’s not to like !? Will be coming back for this if it becomes a menu stable.
Heavenly Foie Gras Ice Cream
After our meal Joe and Lee talked through the book a little – the new publication was on sale at a 50% discount £ 10 only – an update from the previous publication 3 years hence. Lee talked through the dishes that had been served during the evening and also circulated signing the book with his infamous Cock and Ball scribbles that I am sure one day will see him recognised as a great artist ! Example : 
The menu may have been a little experimental but on the whole worked really well, but I would need to follow up with a further visit to sample some of the other original dishes Lee was enjoying serving up to his fans.
This place will not be everybody’s cup of tea, loud, cramped, brash and serving mostly Offal inspired dishes, but it suits me well and my next visit will not in another 2 years time – maybe 2 weeks !
RATING – FOOD – VERY HOT PAN 4/5
SERVICE – 5/5
Black Axe Mangle , 156 Canonbury Road, London. N1 2 UP
Contact Info@blackaxemangal.com
I do confirm Terry, as an absolute fan of ice cream and foie gras, this dessert was a must !