Black Axe Mangal – revisit. Brief Review/ Overview.
Two weeks ago I visited BAM on a one off evening launching the new “Where Chefs Eat” publication where the food on offer was representative of a potential new menu and was to an extent experimental. As good as it was I was curious to sample the type of food the restaurant usually prepares, and therefore I made an undertaking to revisit in two weeks time – and guess what, I kept my word !
I was arriving after an evening at the Almedia Theatre and of course was a hopeful walk in – being a No reservations kind of establishment. Fortunately there were a few tables available and I settled in with a view to trying as much on the menu as possible. In fact reading through the menu I wanted everything, such were the delights on offer. The Owner/ Chef Lee Tiernan remembered me from a few weeks back and we exchanged a few words before he saw what I had ordered and advised me I was being “ambitious “ ! I started with a snack from a menu that was showcasing its more usual offerings – Crispy pig skin with burnt Lime. At £4 this was a generous dish of crisp but soft, sort of, Pork Scratchings.
Pig Skin ? Yes please !
Not the potential tooth breaking Scratchings on offer in some establishments but soft fat with a crisp skin on one side and extremely moorish – perfect as a Beer snack. Probably the best pig skin I have ever had.Curious about the “Fricken Rabbit” but that would have to wait until another visit !
Blood Sausage Bao
Then a blood sausage Bao Bun crammed with burnt baby leeks and a spiced sauce. I am a big black pudding fan but this Sausage was a little different to the puddings I have eaten – maybe rightly so as it is a blood sausage and not black pudding, subtle difference. Was good, quite earthy, went well with the chewy bun and was a great alternative to a hot dog.
Keeping to the meat my next course was for me the star attraction – Marrow Bone flat bread. I was unsure what to expect- a stuffed flatbread or what ? Actually it was a flatbread on the side with 2 Flintstone sized Veal Bones – a la St.Johns – filled with melting roasted marrowbone and an oxtail and herb topping, with a side salad of parsley,tomato,and chilli.
I could eat this every day forever !
Very rich and very meaty and great fun scooping out the marrow and meat and spreading onto the flatbread. As a marrowbone fan this was heaven to me and I would have been happy to eat this without any other dishes on an evening out, maybe every night for the rest of my life !
I was actually already full by now having had a couple of cans of pale ale on the side to help me get through the first 3 courses, but now I was being hit by their sliced pork chop and a salad of watermelon, pickled Ginger, and Thai Basil. Lovingly grilled, juicy sides of fat to give it even more taste, and a fresh side salad to at least help you believe you were eating healthily.
Pork with a healthy side salad !
Fantastic smokey, grilled/charred taste, and I was just able to finish it after I was advised that they could have given me a take away box. I am not one for “Doggy Bags” so I took it upon myself as a challenge to finish it and was pleased with myself for doing so, but even more pleased for BAM and chef Lee who’s food and vibe is, as said before, totally unique. Maybe the restaurants Offerings and atmosphere are a bit too heavy, manly, meaty and noisy for some – tattoos more than welcome – but as Nirvanas “Drain You” started blasting from the Speakers as I was about to leave, my feelings were very much those of this being my Nirvana – or at least one of them !
Rating – Food upped to a 5 from a 4 two weeks back – yes, that good !