Archives for November 2018

Kerridge’s Bar and Grill – Tom delivers a Wow Factor !

November 25, 2018 by admin

Kerridge’s Bar and Grill, Whitehall Place, SW1.

Immediate Wow Factor in the Dining Room

Imagine how absolutely happy I was when researching a restaurant to visit in conjunction with a Theatre trip to see Caroline or Change at the London Playhouse. A Theatre which is steps away from Embankment Underground but almost in an oasis of nothingness when you cast your net around the neighbouring streets. And then – lo and behold – I recognise that the Corinthia Hotel is across the road, seconds away, and where Mr.Kerridge has recently opened his first eponymous restaurant in the confines of the Hotel – yes, non other than cuddly Tom himself ! ( of course only half as cuddly as before after his successful Dopamine Diet adventures). Successfully spotting this location, location, location bit of luck, some 6 weeks before our Theatrical adventure, a post Theatre table at 10.15 was duly secured, and to be frank I was more excited about this than the show itself !

The show at the Playhouse was worth seeing, if only for the spectacular exploits of the Star – Sharon D. Clarke – who delivers a standing ovation performance, and one of the best singular musical barnstormers this year. Sharon 5/5 – Show 4/5 overall …. oops , forgot this is a restaurant review not a Theatrical one. Let’s get back on point, apologies Mr.Kerridge !

As mentioned, Location is so many times critical and paramount to a Restaurants success, and the location here is within the Corinthia Hotel on Northumberland Avenue, but with its own impressive entrance. The room itself delivers a bit of a Wow factor, with a bottle green ceiling, red leather booths, lots of brass and an impressive centre piece of a headless gold suited figure, apparently designed by Toms Missus herself. The space was looking even more seasonal and beautiful with thoughtful, and not over the top,Xmas decor, with the reds and greens of the tree, tinsel and baubles adding to the visual atmosphere. I recall this room a few years ago when I was in attendance for a friends birthday when it was Massimos, but I did not recognise it all until prompted by another in our party who was at the same celebration. This is now a beautiful dining room, and hats off to the designers here.

Tom, I am sure, is extremely happy how things have worked out, having been on the look out for the right space in London to launch a restaurant to add to his 2 star Michelin pub, Hand and Flowers, in Marlow. I am unsure how much time he is spending in each location, but I guess the safest option would be just to produce a second Tom using cutting edge 3D technology. Failing that, a rather decent and trusted Head Chef to oversee whatever restaurant he is not present in each evening.

Our party of 4 are seated at an extremely attractive booth with a beautifully designed round table, glass topped and containing underneath, cut outs of shimmering blue/green/ red scales, resembling a circular fish – a work of art in itself. The menus are promptly provided, and list out 8 Starters and Main Courses. After a quick run through I want to try all but one starter ( Essex Beetroot Salad) and all Mains. This is how appetising the Menu is, and will ensure that I return. The dishes sound like pimped up English Pub/ brassiere classics, with a hint of Hestons “Dinner” menu thrown in for good measure.

Canapés for 4 hungry Souls

All being very hungry, having not eaten since lunch and sitting down close to 22.30 for our late Dinner, we are all excited to be provided with our first morsel of food – free canapés of Cheese and Chive Baby tartlets, filled with what I think was a bechemal sauce of sorts, the pastry being fragile, snapping and dissolving in your mouth with the creamy cheese filling. Good starting Omen !

Much has already been written about certain dishes which have already become Culinary and Instagram icons here, and 2 of these dishes are ordered by our party. I could not resist the wallet bashing Glazed Omelette ‘ Lobster Thermidor’ (£29 !) and C in my party went for the fabled “ Claude’s Mushroom Risotto with Daniels Crispy Egg and aged Parmesan” ( £14.50).

Another Wow ! Lobster Omelette of sorts !

The Omelette was legendary, rich, gooey, and each forkful heading towards your mouth still connected to its little trivet by stringy cheese desperately trying to keep intact with what was left of the dish. One of the best things I have eaten this year, and Lobster is not even a favourite of mine. Worth visiting the restaurant just for this dish. C thoroughly enjoyed her ‘rice less’ risotto with an exclamation of “Oh, my god” as she took her first mouthful.

Risotto withoutRice !

The crispy egg was a visual thing of wonder encased in thin strands of batter/ pastry looking like a spherical Dim Sum of sorts. Other starters chosen were a wondrous light and fragrant Cornish Crab Vol-Au-Vent with beautifully mandolined Radish’s decorating the top, and an Avocado,Green Apple and Crab Bisque served separately to pour around it. Lastly a Loch Duart Salmon with Apple pancake Douglas Fir and Avruga Caviar (£17) Another feast for the eyes and the taste buds.

A 70s Vol Au Vent anybody !?

Gosh – I nearly forgot the bread that I used to mop up the last of my Omelette sauce ! Some Black Treacle Sourdough that I definitely want the recipe for, or I shall have to break into the kitchens and hide away whilst it is being made, as this was awesome, sweet,and earthy, at the same time, and just begged me to get baking !

Beautifully prepared and coloured Salmon with its friends

In the meantime these amazing dishes were being washed down by some 2017 Spanish Albariño, Bodegas Albamar – citrusy, fresh and acidic enough to deal with all of the starters. The wine list ( as are so many in a Hotel Restaurants) was voluminous and contained not many options under £50. Our White was £53, and in choosing the Red to go with the Main Courses, I opted to go ‘experimental’ with a Greek Seira#3, Georgas Family 2017, an unusual wine made by Co-vinifying a French organic red grape with a traditional indigenous Greek white grape variety. Aged in French oak for 1-2 years, it was pretty dry with hints of a pear drop taste , but an interesting option – also at £53 – compared to the highly priced alternatives.

It was so difficult to choose the Main when I was excited by every option on the Menu, but opted for the Rib of Beef from the Butchers Tap (?) with Chips, Bone Marrow Sauce and Gherkin Ketchup (£39 – The most expensive of the Mains), but well worth it.

Outstanding Rib of Beef !

A huge slab of Medium/Rare Beef studded with bacon lardons and smothered in the Marrow Sauce. A beauty to behold and to taste, the only downside to every mouthful being that the portion was getting smaller as you were getting closer to the end ! I want an infinite Kerridge Rib of Beef ! The little bucket of chips also did not disappoint – Triple Cooked, fluffy and pillow like inside, golden to the point of perfection on the outside. Only half way through my dish I spotted the little tub of green sauce on my right which looked Coriander like in colour. I had foolishly forgotten my Gherkin ketchup, which when finally tasted made my taste buds go wow, zing, YES ! Tom, my good man, you need to fill up glass jars of this and sell it on the way out – you will make a packet ! Now there’s an business opportunity idea for you ! Happy to take charge of this project ! Generous as I am – to a fault – I also gave a taster of this ketchup to D, on my right, who was ploughing her way through the Fish and Chips dish.

Fish and Chips for £36.50 !

But you do get 3 accompaniments!

To be more precise – Deep Fried Halibut and Chips with Pease Pudding, Tartare and Matson Spiced Sauce (£36.50- for Fish and Chips !!!). She thought the Gherkin ketchup a great accompaniment to her meal, so it can multi task ! What a star ! This dish was another stand out meal, and the Matson Spiced Sauce making it the poshest Chips in Curry Sauce in the Land !

A Pie and Black Pudding – Heaven !

The other dish which I really had my eye on was the Pigs Cheek Pie with Clotted Cream Mash, Crispy Black Pudding and Devilled Sauce. 1) Love a Pie 2 ) Love Pigs Cheeks 3) Love Black Pudding. This was chosen by our other Diner – P- who managed to devour it before I had a chance to steal any ! The pie was dwarfed by the size of the plate that it sat upon, and it had a cute little pastry snout for aesthetics. The black pudding sat atop the mash on a separate little pot and the sauce again pourable from its own little gravy dish.

We had ordered a couple of side dishes too. A Truffled Celeriac option, which was autumnal, earthy and luxuriant. Additionally a Garlic Roasted Savoy Cabbage which had been purposefully cremated to almost a cinder on the underneath, but the burnt buttery taste was also very pleasurable, and being smothered in garlicky mayo and chives scored again.

Burnt Garlicky Savoy Cabbage

Not one Diner disappointed, all dishes scoring very highly. 4 very satisfied Diners, however impossible to try Desserts. It was already almost midnight, and whilst we are full, it is also late, and therefore we will have to return to judge the sweet offers another day. After advertising some of his recipes in The Times recently, I had already made one of the Dessert options at a Dinner Party myself – the Roasted Vanilla and Honey Creme Brulee. It was awesome, but a lot of hard work. However this little test already encourages me to think the other sweets will also be a hit – all on offer at £13.50. Selection of Cheeses at £16.50.

Truffled Celeriac on our Arty table

Tom – I think you have created an instant classic ! Certainly appeals to my taste buds, and will wish to return ASAP ! Having said that, and the only downside, is that a meal here could require you to take out a second mortgage – especially if you indulge in more expensive wine and more than the 2 bottles our party of 4 shared during our evening. Some people may baulk at Fish and Chips for close on £40, which may take this restaurant into the Special occasion category , unless you are on an expense account. However, whatever way you work out to pay for the meal, you will not be disappointed. Hats off to you Mr.Kerridge, you are certainly not a flash in the pan, but an amazing, Blazingly Hot Pan !

Rating Food – Blazingly Hot Pan 5/5

Service – Blazingly Hot Pan 5/5

Kerridges Bar and Grill , Whitehall Place, Westminster , SW1A 2 BD ( inside Corinthia Hotel)

tel 0207 930 8181

kerridgesbarandgrill.co.uk

Holborn Dining Room – Pyes for the 21st Century !

November 18, 2018 by admin

Holborn Dining Room – Rosewood Hotel, High Holborn.

Holborn Dining Room

No, I have not spelt the word wrong “Pyes” – this is the old English spelling from the 12th Century of what would have been a predominantly meat Pye. Initially designed as a storage vessel, the crust and pastry encasing the meat was there to protect and preserve the nutritious insides, and was often discarded as being simply the packaging. 9 centuries later and we arrive at Chef Calum Franklin, Executive Chef at the Rosewood Hotel, Holborn, who is making the humble Pie a piece of art work – playing right into the hands of today’s Instagramming hordes of Diners.

Indeed Chef Calum does not only have a selection of pies on his menu every evening but also has initiated a Pie Room that is selling upwards of a 100 pies a day for take away Monday to Friday. He is also behind an initiative to utilise the Hotels Courtyard as an Artisan market during the weekends, and is helping to teach old skills to younger chefs in his kitchen, who can work 5 at a time on one specific design for a pie. Calum Franklin himself has had experience in various restaurants but has been most recently employed as the Senior Sous Chef at Roast in Borough Market. Having been invited to take over the kitchens at the Rosewood, he apparently found an old Pate de Croute mould in the kitchens and was interested to discover how to fill it. This curiosity rapidly expanded to an obsession for design and structure of all things “Pye” and the Holborn Pie Room and the brasseries new Menu was born.

With some of Calum’s recipes now appearing in Newspapers and online, I, and many others have already tried to replicate them, and Calum has adapted some to assist the typical home chef, even utilising – dare I say it – shop bought Pastry – Sacre Blue ! or maybe as we are talking an Old English recipe, more appropriately, Gordon Bennet ! ( This is also a nod to my good French friend, A, accompanying me at the restaurant, and currently discovering the humour of “ Only fools and Horses” but being quite mystified by Delboys exclamations with reference to Mr. Bennet !)

To the restaurant itself. One end of the space – Entrance area- is occupied by a Gin Bar claiming to house approx 300 varieties of Gin and offering various cocktails derived from their voluminous stock. The remainder of the room offers itself as a dining space in what A described as a typical French brasserie style but “chicer” – think lots of brass and red leather. High ceilings and many little lampshades around giving it a buzzy but welcoming atmosphere. They can handle 200 covers an evening. I do recall this space from maybe 10 years ago when it was a restaurant by the name of a Pearl. It only stands out in my memory as I had a monkfish starter that so impressed me I asked – jokingly – if I could have the recipe, and at the end of the menu the Chef came our with a hand written A4 sheet with all ingredients and method. This is the first and only time I have experienced that – makes me think – where is that sheet of paper now ?

Anyway back to 2018 ! We are seated at a comfortable enough round table, meaning that 2 of us will get the comfy sofa and one of us the rickety chair. No surprises for guessing how that one went ! Upon presentation of the Menus the waiter informs us that the Curried Mutton pie is no longer available – that’s one of the 5 pies on offer already gone, and it’s only 19.30 ! Due to my haphazard stalking of Chef Calum on Instagram I know he has been on Honeymoon in Mexico – utilising the Rosewood Myokoba ( which I have also been lucky enough to visit), and enquire if he has yet returned. Unfortunately not the Waiter replies, so there goes my ambition of meeting with him and touring the kitchens – another time !

The menu is unexpectedly extensive, and in addition to the pies there is on offer a Cold Counter offering specialised English charcuterie ( Hackney Culatello anybody ?) , a Seafood Counter ( with all produces coming in from Padstow), and a wide ranging expanse of Starters and Mains. Not cheap, but we are in an expensive Hotel, so maybe I should not be surprised.

Jersey Rocks – and Rolls !

My other Dining companion ( C – also French), wants Oysters, and the Jersey Rocks are on the menu at £18 for half a dozen. Very traditionally served with the extras you would expect but all shunned by C who does not want Tabasco or Red Wine Vinegar corrupting the sweet juicy flesh of the molluscs. She is very happy with them,very fresh, not too salty and of reasonable size. C wanted a glass of White to wash them down, and the Sommelier here excelled himself with service and recommendations. He offered a Furmint from Hungary (£12 a glass) or a French Viognier (£18), but poured both and allowed all 3 of us to smell/ taste before C made her choice. Looking at the Reds to accompany our main courses, then the wine list was starting at around £45 a bottle. I advised our Sommelier I was interested in the Chatea Musar Cabernet blend from 2009. He provided a knowledgable and engaging story about the wine and how usually it is drunk young, but that he discovered a 2009 which he was impressed with and contacted the producer direct to secure a few cases. At £62 not something you would be drinking too many bottles of in one evening, but scanning down the list, this price was still at the bottom end but appeared to offer more value for money, and something a little different – which indeed it was. Peppery and Honey like on the nose, and more Pepper than honey on the palate, but very enjoyable and not what you would expect from a typical Bordeaux blend.

The humble Scotch Egg elevated to Fine Dining !

My starter choice was the Scotch Egg (£10) – but not any Scotch Egg. This was advertised on the menu as a Monkshill Farm Scott Egg which had been a Winner of the Scotch Egg Challenge. How can you resist a champion Scotch Egg ? The waiter explained it had been a Winner 2 years ago, and used Burford Brown Egg encased in a combination of White Pudding and ( I established later) pork sausage meat from the pig equivalent of Kobe Beef – a domesticated Mangalitsa Hungarian Pig. This was all nestling on a bed of Caper mayonnaise. Undoubtedly the best Scotch Egg I had ever experienced, with a golden creamy perfectly prepared yolk, and a delicate consistency of sausage meat that I was quite surprised about, elevating a Scotch Egg to a Fine Dining experience. Caper mayonnaise was also a wonderful salty accompaniment, and ensured the potential dryness of a Scotch Egg was avoided.

Taking into consideration I had chosen the restaurant due to its Pie status then my eyes would not allow me to linger elsewhere on the menu. The choices were Chicken, Girolle and Tarragon, Steak and Kidney ( using braised cheek), Hand raised Pork Pie ( Pork Shoulder, Smoked bacon, fennel seeds and sage), or a Vegetarian offer Of Potato, Comte and Caramelised Onion with Parsley Sauce. All pies priced at £20 other than the Chicken at £22. We all individually reviewed the options, and then incredibly all came up with the same choice – 3 Chicken pies. Not good for a reviewer as I can now only comment on 3 Chickens !

Elsewhere on the menu there were many options from Shrimp Burgers to Fish and Chips ( £19), Rare Breed Sirloins (£34) to Holborn Beef Burgers (£24) Not untypical of any variety you would come to expect in a Brasserie, and seemingly hoping to cater for its Global Hotel guests – from couples to families.

The Pies ? Good, but not exceptionally so. Visually perfect, sitting on a vibrant Pea Purée, Pastry excellent, interior – chicken soft, good punch of Tarragon, but missing a little Oomph ? Something ? Maybe needed a stronger sauce, more girolles. Just seemed to lack something, to the extent I was thinking I could have made better at home ? Never a good thing when you paying £22 for the benefit. As mentioned, as we all went like sheep ( or chickens) for the same pie, I cannot comment on other pies, so it means a second visit to perform a proper critique. Do not misunderstand me, I enjoyed eating the pie, and it was a lovely feeling of comfort when doing so , but I just had a lingering doubt in my mind that I was expecting a little more.

Sides – nothing to shout about here !

The sides did not impress. A Green Garden Salad that went almost untouched. White Cabbage, Fennel and Apple slaw which was just boring, and Champ which is basically pimped up Irish mashed Potato. The later worked well with the Pie and Peas, but £5 for a small dish of mashed Pots ?

As reported on previous reviews, my friend A is a Dessert fiend, so whilst we were all pretty full from our Pies he was avidly perusing the sweets, anticipating dessert Pies, which were surprisingly non existent. The nearest you came to a Fruit Pie was a classic Tarte Tatin for 2 persons at £16. As an alternative he chose a Paris Brest, and with being French I realised A was the perfect Friend to ask – what is it ? . He explained that Paris – Brest was a cycling race, and the Dessert had been invented to celebrate, or commemorate this race, and in doing so was designed to resemble the wheel of a bicycle.

Paris Brest – apparently a Bicycle inspired Dessert

Basically it is a choice pastry cut open and spread with a creamy praline with hazelnuts inside and almonds outside. He enjoyed it, but he would enjoy anything sweet ! As we discussed, some people complain when they experience a sugar rush – he is the opposite – and needs to maintain the high levels of sugar in his body or he will experience a “sugar down” which could be fatal !

Not sticky enough toffee pudding

As C and I did not want to sit and watch A eat alone we ordered a Sticky Toffee Pudding to share, simply because C did not know if she liked this or not. It was served with a Tonka Bean Ice Cream, and was extremely rich, slightly overbearing on the cinnamon side, and relied heavily on its bed of caramel sauce to overcome its dryness. Ok, but not the best – not sticky enough for my liking !

Did we like the Holborn Dining Room ? Atmosphere was good for a Hotel Dining Room, and Service – especially from the Sommelier- was excellent. Food highlight for me was the Scotch Egg, Pies good, and enjoyed eating it, but a certain “ je ne sais quoi “ missing. On reflection maybe there is a certain aim towards the Hotels International guests – especially Americans as I really don’t think they are familiar with such Pies. For myself, maybe upon a return visit I can understand a little better, and would like to see the kitchens and the pie making at work. Come back Calum, your restaurant and I need you !

Rating – Food Hot Pan 3/5

– Service. Very Hot Pan 4/5

Holborn Dining Room, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN

Tel 0207 747 8633

holborndiningroom.com

Lupins – Small but beautifully formed !

November 11, 2018 by admin

Lupins – 66 Union Street SE1.

What a fantastic addition to the locality Flat Iron Square is ! It was launched as recently as October 2016 and has taken over seven railway arches between Southwark Bridge Road and Union Street, next door to the Menier Chocolate Theatre, and created a wonderful new Foodie Hub with bars, restaurants, food trucks and an intimate music venue – Omeara.

It also signals an ambitious new project called the Low Line ( how very Manhattan this is all sounding Flat Iron/ High Line ! ) which intends to initiate a world class walking route for tourists along the base of the rail viaduct at Bankside. Its aim is to link together neighbourhoods between London Bridge and Waterloo, Blackfriars and Elephant and Castle. Whilst this is a long term project, right now they have created an Alpine Ski Lodge in the open area of the square which looks pretty authentic, and I am sure will be highly popular during the coming Winter months. When you consider this was effectively an underused Car Park only 2 years ago, it is amazing what can be achieved over such a short period, and how an attraction bringing in thousands of people every day/night can be thoughtfully designed.

One of the relatively new restaurants on the Union Street side of the complex is Lupins where we were last night before seeing the current play at The Menier Theatre – Pack Of Lies. In fact I discovered Lupins earlier this year through a friends recommendation, and visited maybe 3 times in a month, so happy was I to find this little gem so close to my abode. However life is too short and there are too many restaurants opening all across London to spend a disproportionate time in one location, so I then promptly forgot all about it. Now thinking of where to eat before a show at the Menier, Lupins came to mind again, and appeared to be the perfect candidate being a 2/3 minute amble from the Stage Door.

The restaurant opened in May 2017 and was started up by Lucy Peddler and Natasha Cooke of Medlar in Chelsea fame, and they have created an English Tapas concept with seasonly changing menu. Ok not so original, but then again not an unattractive idea. The place is small. Very small. You enter basically into the kitchen area which on the right hand side opens up to a bar/ dining space that is vast, but nothing to do with Lupins. It’s the design of being under the Arches and Lupins shares its Toilet facilities, with a bar/restaurant space next door under the arch, which then interconnects to Omeara (Pub/ Music Venue) and to an outside space. As a Diner in Lupins you are directed upstairs to their tiny dining room which probably accommodates around 20 covers. It’s wooden Tables are small and close, but the room is light and bright with whitewashed walls and wooden floorboards and a large window overlooking the road. Food is delivered by a Dumb Waiter system from the kitchen downstairs.

On presentation of the menu the dishes are unrecognisable from my previous visits other than what appears to have become one of its signature dishes – the Cornmeal Spring Onions with Chipotle mayonnaise. I have had these on every single visit to date and tonight is no exception.

Don’t throw away the sweetest of roots !

They arrive at our table looking like a Scarecrows wig or a Zuchinni Fritte on testosterone. But they taste so sweet under the cornmeal crunch, and with the added kick from the Mayo, are definitely something not to miss. You would not usually consider the roots of any Spring Onions you have at home – trim them off and throw away – but here the roots are the sweetest part and savoured.

Actually these Onions are from the Small plates part of the Menu (£7.50), and were preceded by a couple of items from the Snacks part of the Menu. First off, Cavola Nero and Gruyere Croquettes with Red Pepper (£5), and then Game Pastillas with Cranberry Chutney (£6). Each dish consisted of two items, so perfect for a couple sharing.

Xmas is coming – bring on the Cranberries !

The Pastillas are a little greasy, but the pastry is delicately thin and crunchy encasing a mixture of Venison,Pheasant and Grouse, all nicely ground up and combined to give a very autumnal dish, and dipped into the Cranberry Chutney almost made me think of Xmas !

From memory there is always some kind of Croquettes on offer here and Cavola Nero being in them was a first for me. They shattered on cutting into them demonstrating a very good casing but the cheese and Greens were falling out all over the place make it a messy but tasty eat.

You just have to love any Croquette !

They also came sitting on a Red Pepper Sauce which gave some added depth of flavour and ensured the crust was not to dry. Further they were sprinkled with a sort of black Olive crush which added a little sweet/ saltiness, which when all combined in one mouthful really did work.

Now back to the Small Plates Menu, our next course was maybe our highlight ( well certainly for MrsW) – Linguine with Burrata, Wild Mushrooms and preserved Lemons (£10). This was constructed so there was a small portion of Burrata hiding under a hill of perfectly cooked linguini scattered with Wild mushrooms, but concealing its real treasure – the aromatic taste of preserved lemons – not seen, but to the fore only when you tasted it.

Come to me you gorgeous Preserved Lemons !

These flavours worked like a dream, with the citrus coming through at the end of every forkful, and showed how you can use preserved lemons away from their traditional use in Middle East/Arabic recipes.

Keeping our menu choices away from meat to appease my better half, our final two dishes were fishy. First up Grilled Sardines with Salmoriglio and a Fennel Salad (£9). The little bones in these type of sardines can of course be offputting to some ( Mrs W included) but do not bother me.

Careful of these little Critters Bones !

I was unsure what the Salmoriglio Sauce would be, but upon the dishes arrival appreciated it to be a concoction of Parsley, Garlic,Olive Oil, Lemon Juice and Oregano. It was extremely pungent, powerful and garlicky but complimented the Sardines perfectly, with the crunchy Fennel cutting through everything keeping it all fresh in the mouth.

The Final Course ( before Dessert) was a Cornish Crab Thermidor (£9). Wasn’t sure what to expect in terms of presentation here – half a crab, or a crab shell with Thermidor Sauce a la Lobster ?

What’s not to like – Crab Thermidor on Garlic Toast

But no, this came with the crab in a little dish smothered in the Thermidor Sauce, whacked under a Grill, and accompanied by some really garlicky toasted sourdough to mop it all up with. I could easily eat a whole bowl of this with the bread, and have that as a very satisfying supper at home – now there’s an idea, just have to work out the recipe? Anyway this was well received and luckily enough it was last on the menu as if it arrived first we may have had to order two to prevent a crab scuffle ensuing !

Surprisingly for me Mrs.W wanted to try a Dessert, but insisted it be the Chocolate option rather than the Cherry Creme Brûlée on offer. And oh gosh was the woman right. Not ordinarily a Sweet person myself, but the Dark Chocolate Ganache with Sesame and Salted Caramel was a revelation to behold.

Happy Ending – Lupins Style

Two generous Quenelles of velvety chocolate surrounded by a generous swirl of caramel with, I think, also a dusting of honeycomb was greedily finished off, notwithstanding the fact we both had felt full after our crab. Very good indication of the quality of the Dessert. Excellent value for £6.

What did we drink? Only a modest Carafe of Douro from Portugal but ashamedly forgot to take note of its details. However a good price at £19 and indeed the whole wine list is reasonably priced with half a dozen Reds/ Whites available by glass/Carafe, and the high end wines being at a level of £50/60 a bottle. Only comment I would make is that a couple of reds/ Whites from UK would not have gone a miss, with the only Domestic produced wine on offer being a sparkling Brut from Harrow and Hope at £62. At least the Beers on offer are all from London supporting the local Breweries!

As you can have seen from the prices mentioned above, this is a restaurant that is very reasonably priced meaning that you could eat there regularly without breaking the bank. We probably ate more than enough ( to ensure I sampled various dishes to write about) and spent £82. I feel you could eat here and be easily pleased for £50 between 2, plus whatever alcohol you wished for on top. Very good value for money.

Service was very attentive and friendly and food was generally excellent, if not too complicated. However sometimes a good quality simple experience is all you need. If you are in the area you could do far worse, and if you are visiting the Menier, it is ideal. ( The show was excellent by the way- recommend that too – acting first rate).

Rating – Food – Very Hot Pan 4/5

Service – Blazingly Hot Pan 5/5

Lupins, 66 Union Street, London SE1 1TD

Tel 0203 908 5888

lupinslondon.com

Blanchette East – A Cosy Oasis amongst the Curry Houses !

November 10, 2018 by admin

Have you ever been to a Korean Wedding ? Even more specifically – a Korean Wedding in Tashkent, Uzbekistan ? I had the fortune to be invited some years ago by a Client/ Friend (Vitaliy) to his wedding, and maybe unsurprisingly I found myself as the only Westerner at this over the top,enormously attended event, in a Hall large enough to swallow up Buckingham Palace. I was a curiosity to many at the wedding- especially the local women. They were all lovely, full of questions and very attentive, and I was suspicious, thinking that I could be a potential groom for them. I then found out that more than being a curiosity, I was also the “novelty” at this gathering, and called up on stage in front of hundreds of guests to perform ! What I was asked to do was to sit on an enormous balloon with a colleague of mine from Moscow on a similar “space hopper” style blow up, and we had to race the length of the ballroom before jumping up and down as aggressively as possible to burst our transport vehicle first to determine a winner. Boy did they laugh, and how shockingly exhausting it was for me, probably not helped by the dozens of vodka shots that I had consumed in toasts beforehand. Not something to quickly forget, and an incident remembered whilst visiting Blanchette East with a Korean/Russian Lady friend “VK” last night. Apparently the Balloon thing used to be quite common at Weddings (albeit apparently it is losing its popularity now ) but games are a thing to break up and lighten what can become a lengthy procession of speeches and toasts sometimes lasting for days……

Blanchette does not serve Korean food, but offers a menu of French and North African cuisine in an array of sharing starters/ snacks, and Plates that can be consumed individually, or again shared according to preference. It is – I must say- one of the most welcoming restaurants I have been to for a while, the decor consisting of an eclectic mix of velvet curtains, candles, paintings, flowers, exposed bricks, fireplace, empty bottles and just “stuff” placed in all the right places to make you feel warm,cosy and at home. Some may say Belle Époque style. It is backed by Salt Yard Groups Ben Tish and Simon Mullins, but run by Brothers Maxime, Yannis, and Malik Alary who opened the original Blanchette in SoHo in 2014. I have not visited the original but I am assuming it was impressive enough to encourage a follow up in the East which is nestled amongst the Curry Houses of Brick Lane, albeit in the quieter drag at the top end nearer to Bethnal Green Road.

We sit and first choose some wine feeling thirsty, and in need of sustenance after a windswept walk from the City. There is a tempting cocktail list too ( all at £11), but we plump for a Bottle of Cote du Rhône Domaine Les Aphillanthes, a mix of Carignan,Mourvèdre, Grenache 2015 for £38. Also sold by glass or Carafe, as are half a dozen of reds and whites. The wine list is very Francophile focused, with one or two exceptions, but reasonably priced with the most expensive red being a Rothschild Bordeaux at £75.

Who does not like a Sausage Roll?

From the snacking menu we start with the Merguez Sausage Roll (£6) which comes with a vibrant and spicy Harissa mayonnaise. It’s not fine dining, more homely, but an inviting golden encased earthy tasting sausage roll, all the better with a kick of the Mayo.

This comes with the Bread we had ordered which arrives in a little brown bag, is warm, fresh and smells very inviting. Basically a classic Baguette in generous slices. Next to the table were a Burrata (£12) that sits in a pool of Rocket and Basil Emulsion with toasted pine nuts scattered around.

Burrata

VK says it’s just Burrata where I beg to differ, as the quality of the cheese is 5 star and scooped up to the bread with some emulsion and nuts, it was a great little snack. Maybe not so little – these snacks are quite sizeable and I have ordered 4 main plates after these – more of that later. Now we have a Baked St.Marcellin with Honey and Truffle ( £6.50)on the table.

OK but Honey / Truffle where are you ?

It arrives with more bread in the form of thin cut toasts and an earthy onion relish. The Honey and Truffle seem to be missing in action, but the cheese is great spread on the toast with the relish, but something that could have easily have been knocked up at home.

We are already feeling full so now somewhat worried about 4 more plates to come. Good news is that I will be able to sample more dishes for a comprehensive review, bad news is How to eat 4 more? Better order another bottle of wine to help us get through. But this bottle is not right- corked or tainted in some other way. The waitress comes back and says the Barman thinks it’s ok but “no worries I will open another”. 2 observations here. First they clearly need a new Barman as if he cannot tell when a wine is “off” he should not be employed. Second, full marks to the waitress who was fantastic throughout our meal and quickly arrived with another bottle- no questions asked.

Out of all the options under the “Plates” menu I fancied every dish other than Grilled Smoked Haddock with Beetroot,Green Apple and Clementine(£16). I am not keen on anything too smokey ( especially Peaty Whisky) and not a fan of beetroot. This is of course what VK ordered. Oh well – don’t have to share everything. This arrived with a dish I had chosen of baked Moroccan Eggs, Peppers and a Flat Bread (£8.75) First thing we both noticed was – It appeared that the Egg was singular not plural as per the menu, and furthermore it was Egg Yolk and the whole egg.

Egg – Singular not a Plural !

On pointing this out to our waitress she agreed 100% and advised she had told this to the kitchen and that the menu should be changed. However, it smelt fantastic and when started to devour it, tasted great on a piece of flatbread. Silky peppers smothered in a runny egg yolk and some texture there too ( unsure what). Very homely again and maybe easy enough to replicate at home but was a hit. The fish I avoided for some short time but for the sake of a review tried it out. Wow – the Haddock was so delicately Smoked and soft and flakey even I loved it.

Smoked Fish and a Beetroot that even I ate !

The Beetroot Purée was sweet and not tasting like it had just been dug up, so was also more than edible for a Beetroot hater. Avoided the chunks of Beetroot that VK said had maybe been lightly cured/ marinated. Unsure where Clementine came in but this dish was unusual and so good I could even order it again.

Before we finished these 2 courses the meat courses arrived and we were in desperate need of another couple of diners to join us as we were flat out stuffed !

I managed to just about clear the Moroccan Egg dish to make way for the newly arrived plates on our tiny table and took a deep breath, slug of wine, and tested out the Fillet Steak Tartare which came with Truffle Mustard and Caper (£13)dressing and yet more bread – sourdough this time. The meat was very coarsely cut ( just how I like it) rather than into a mince purée how some restaurants prepare their Tartares, and the quality of the beef shone through. It was a superb tartare – the best I had had in 24 hours – in explanation, I had been to Thomas Parrys Brat for lunch the day before and their Tartare defies all previous taste experience and knowledge of how a Tartare is prepared/served. Just awesome.

Second best Tartare ever.

So Blanchette had a lot to live upto but I would say second best I have had in living memory. A great side of the dressing when spread on toast was heavenly but I am now full of bread.

Our final Course was and even more comforting, homely “Bourguignon” style Braised Ox Cheeks with a Pomme Puree button onions and mushrooms (£17.50) I could imagine preparing this myself and ending up with something very similar to what was served here but sometimes it is very satisfying to enjoy home cooking when you are not the producing Chef. The desperately sad thing was that we could not do the dish justice and picked at it before it was taken away. I really had misjudged the size of the portions here and the Ox cheeks would have been enough in itself after a couple of starters. But it was outstandingly good, the cheeks so soft and tender and sauce glisteningly coating the mushrooms, onions and lovely lardons.

Next time need to eat this first !

After an offer from our Waitress to box up the leftovers to take home was rejected, I am surprised by VK asking if they have any ice creams or sorbets. We do not look at the Dessert menu ( next time as I have heard they are impressive) but end up with a Coffee Granita with some kind of Cream or Creme Fraiche on top amid mixed with a mystery ingredient which we cannot identify but tastes a little weird. We establish it is actually chestnuts but neither of us think it’s works well together and it goes unfinished.

Somehow we made it to the end of the meal with a warning note to be a little smarter when ordering here next time ! The dishes were generally very good with a couple of misses, or what appeared to be ingredients going AWOL. The atmosphere is perfectly inviting and warming, just the right noise levels, friendly and efficient service, and I would definitely return. I asked VK at the end what would be her rating – 5 for service, 4.5 for the food but a black mark for no wardrobe as her coat was knocked to the floor from the back of her seat on numerous occasions. Now that’s a criteria I had not thought about before – cloakroom Marks !

Myself, I am awarding 4.5 for service and 4 for the food, but that could increase if I choose the right dishes and not so many upon any return. The prices are reasonable, and wine list pleasingly good value for money. We paid £180 for 2 including 2 bottles of wine, but if you sensibly ordered the dishes you could easily get away with close to £100.

Rating – Food Very Hot Pan 4/5

Service Blazingly Hot 4.5/ 5

Blanchette East, 204 Brick Lane, London E1 6 SA

0207729 7939

blanchettebricklane.co.uk