
Fermented Jollof Rice, Squid and Plantain
I do not think there is one Restaurant I have been a repeat offender of/ Visitor to, within the last 6 months than Ikoyi. It has gleaned high critical acclaim from many recognised Restaurant reviewers and from me – an unrecognised Restaurant reviewer. My first visit was alone when I found I had a couple of hours to spare between a meeting and a Theatre visit. I was in the vicinity and recalled reading an interview with Chef Jeremy Chan (who had worked with Heston Blumenthal at Dinner, Noma and Claude Bosi at Hibiscus) and being intrigued that he and his partner Hassan Odukale ( ex flat mates and Hassan hailing from Ikoyi, a suburb of Lagos) were intent on bringing West Nigerian Cuisine to St.James in a fine dining Gastronomic style.
I thoroughly enjoyed my first visit and the unheard of ingredients, the Spices and Heat involved, and the marvellous skill in balancing them which Jeremy was managing artfully. The restaurant was virtually empty but I put it down to its newness and unusual concept which I hoped would catch on toot suite. Thereafter I have taken different sets of friends on three further occasions – one time the Restaurant was happily buzzy and busy, the others fairly dormant – and this Sunday lunch I was to attend a new concept that the restaurant had advertised – The Staff Food Waste Project. This was an ethically driven Tasting Menu experiment based on waste products from their kitchen.
Upon arrival at 13.00 I was concerned I had the wrong time or date as a I was unsure if the restaurant was open behind its smokey glass interior, but then realised there was movement inside. My 3 friends and I ventured inside and realised there were only 3 other people in the restaurant and more alarmingly the kitchen appeared to be unnaturally quiet for a fully operating lunchtime service.
However we were greeted with open arms and led to our table and provided with the Set Menu and a list of cocktails should we wish to imbibe. Shortly thereafter our first starter arrived being a Garri Cracker, Citrus Asaro with Pickled Herb Stem. Now you understand when I mentioned unheard of products/ingredients !

Garri Cracker,Citrus Asaro And Pickled Herb Stem
Upon a little questioning we learnt that Garri is Cassava( an edible tuberous root) and that Asaro is Yam. They resembled little dusted golden breadcrumbed cakes with the pickled stems just visible through the powder. They also tasted like nothing I have eaten before but in a good way with the pickled herbs dominating over the Yam, not really picking up on the Citrus element, but a little heat coming through as the taste developed in your mouth. An intriguing start. ( by this time 5 more people had entered the restaurant but that was to be the entirety of its reservations on this Lunch service).
Second Course was a tiny little ceramic pot of Pepper Broth with Seaweed. It was earthy and dense and maybe had chicken stock as a base ? – but the Black Pepper taste was just at the right level and, whilst strong, was extremely inviting and tasty and I personally could have managed more than the small pot contained.

Pepper Broth and Seaweed
Admittedly the colour and presentation did not look too inviting but this was more than made up for with the next course which was a vibrant and beautifully coloured dish of Fermented Jollof Rice, Squid and Plantain. I have eaten Ikoyi’s Jollof Rice on every visit to date and whilst the components have changed a little over time – last time it was Crab Jollof Rice- the taste is amazing and one of my favourite finds of the year to date. This dish was very different to what I was expecting as the rice had been made into a circular rice cake and had been plied with crispy squid and other vegetables. We were advised to roll it up and eat it like a Taco, and the texture of the crispy squid and plantain were fabulous. Still not as good as the orgasmic Fried Jollof Rice but a very good second best – Rice Wise.
The final savoury Course was Chicken with Artichoke Root, Preserved Citrus and Garlic, which looked very brown, and again, maybe not too appetising, visually, but the taste belied it’s aesthetics. I am unsure why the chicken would qualify as Food Waste – maybe they were the false Fillets from the breast that are not usually used ?

Chicken,Artichoke Root,Preserved Citrus
It contained an unnamed sauce and was all very tasty albeit the textures were are similar, so something crunchy or more textured would have been welcome. Maybe the roots could have been crisped up a little – an idea ? Now back to rice again, we were provided with a side dish of glorious Coconut Rice with potent Scotch Bonnets which I was happily mopping up as I was desperate to recover from a Gin infused hangover from the night before. My dining partners liked the taste but felt the quantity was too much sat against the size of the main meal – additional sauce with the meal could have been used to compliment additional quantities of the rice, but as it was the voluminous Rice dishes were not fully consumed ( other than mine !)
Dessert was actually a real stand out even though I am not usually a fan of sweets. This was Milk Solids with Zobo (?) Caramel And Spent Cameroonian Coffee. The Milk Solids were used to make a very soft Ice Cream style Dessert which sat on a crumb of caramel and coffee (?) and the tastes intermingled together perfectly.

Milk Solids and Zobo ?
The price of the meal was £45 for 5 courses which when you consider the restaurant a la Carte prices are not cheap seemed quite reasonable. Maybe the quality was not quite up there with their usual dishes, and when you eat with your eyes maybe the presentation/ colours were lacking. All of the dishes were however very original and displayed interesting ideas, introducing all of us to new tastes for our palates.
At the end of service we saw Jeremy leaving, and in recognising me – obviously a good Customer for them ! – he did an about turn and we had a quick discussion about the concept. He admitted that it had not gained traction and in fact they had to cancel the previous Sunday as there were literally no takers for the Lunch Time Service. He postured that maybe the name of the Project using the word “Waste” may have put people off, but that it had been a learning experience bearing in mind the restaurant is not usually open on a Sunday. He did suggest that maybe they could come up with a different Tasting Menu concept for a Sunday to differ from their usual A La Carte offering during the evenings and also confirmed that they have a new Menu in any event, so I have a reason to venture there yet again!
I will continue to bang the drum for this restaurant which also has great local Restaurant neighbours in Aquavit and the newly opened Scully. Generally James explained he is not getting the footfall of walk ins as maybe their menu is just too unusual for casual walker bys, so this is their next challenge. I do hope more people “get it” and they do not have to move away from their original concept to attract more Customers, but they exist in a very competitive environment operating in a eye wateringly expensive area – please get out and support them !
Ikoyi, 1 St James Market, SW1Y 4 AH
ikoyilondon.com
Rating – Food Very Hot Pan 4 ( Waste Project Menu , but on other visits a 5)
Service Very Hot Pan 4







They are very Retro, and cool from that point of view- the best part of it though was making a Hazlenut praline and then blitzing that to make a lovely caramelised Hazlenut Dust to sprinkle on top. Not difficult and lots extra to take home !




We also made a Pate De Campagne using chicken livers and minced Pork together with Pistachios. This was quite simple to prepare and really tasty, especially when served with the Onion Confit we had prepared, and the Walnut and Raisin Bread which grew to be a monster.
If you decide to visit Hide after reading this review please take note that the restaurant is very aptly named in that we walked straight past its nondescript And well hidden frontage and continued walking down Piccadilly towards Marble Arch. By the time we arrived at another excellent dining destination – Coya- I realised that we had ventured to far and we made an abrupt U turn and headed back towards Green Park station. Hide and Seek – where are you Ollie ?
Mrs.West started with Chesnut parcels in a light duck broth – little Tortellini shaped parcels bobbing about in a pungent and intend,y flavoured broth – actually deeply coloured as opposed to the light broth advertised but so good I was not offered a taster. I had opted for the Red Prawns with fragrant herbs in a chilled broth made from prawn shells. It was a picture on a plate, raw delicate prawns complimented with strong dill and fragrant aniseedy baby fennel.
The broth was earthy and well balanced – a delightfully refreshing dish perfect for a Summers Day. I had also opted to pay the £18 supplement for additional Exmoor Caviar – adding a little extra saltiness to the meal but unclear as to where in Exmoor they had unearthed Sturgeon?
Mrs West chose one of her Restaurant staples – Octopus- another picture of a plate having been barbecued and dressed with Moscatel Grapes, Lovage And White Miso. Another meal where not one morsel came my way but I was advised was soft,sweet but with a little smokiness and crunch from the Hot coals.
The rest of the menu was also extremely inviting with a Grilled Spice Quail with date syrup,Globe artichoke and toasted grains looking very much like a meal that would require testing on a second visit.


Amazingly my teacher commented that it looked appetising – I had to steal myself wondering if he was being ironic or not. Here’s my effort which I was too ashamed to post on Instagram – especially when I saw the same dish being beautifully plated by other students. The taste was faultless but maybe I would need to up my game “presentation wise” for the big day tomorrow !
The following day was a long process involving folding the mix as carefully as possible to aerate it, proving it, and allowing it to be gently coaxed and oiled into a large baking tray before sprinkling with more oil, Rosemary and Sea Salt, and eventually the bake. The kitchen smelt wonderful as the bread began its baking time and the scent of Rosemary filled the room – we could not wait to get them out of the Oven and try them as we were on a full days cook and nobody had eaten lunch – 16 ravenous Students all clock watching at 4 having spent the rest of the day making Petit Fours.
To a man ( or Woman) I think the breads all came out successfully and thankfully in generous proportions. Some commented it was the best Focaccia they had ever tasted !
Each of us took responsibility for one of these tasks and produced a table of wonderful looking Petit Fours that were also photographed by the School and used on Social Media- one of our students recognising her burnt hands on a Twitter feed !

We were provided with a snack to keep us going – some little chickpeas that had been roasted with kefir lime leaves that tasted very aromatic and moorish, especially at 10.15pm as our table of four had not eaten for a very long time !
My friends were a little shocked by the enormous puffs that arrived but I had expected something akin to a giant pork scratching and I was not a million miles away from what turned up.
Next up were crispy baby Sicilian artichokes with a black shallot Ailoli (£8.50) Another unusual dish, not exactly very colourful, but, as it said on the tin, very crispy, dry admittedly, but when mixed with the lovely oniony purée and little flecks of burnt shallots around the edges, was another hit.
Then we had something that would be more refreshing unusual and really worked well. An early season Tomato and Coconut Salad , Green Strawberries and Tomato shrub. The list of ingredients felt like they should not be on the same plate.
The strawberries were in fact pickled green strawberries from one of the jars we had seen at the reception area, the coconut shredded, and the bowl also contained Tomato juices, which as my friend Claire exclaimed was “her dream Tomato Juice” . This really was a palet cleanser, as well as being an exotic and unusual salad, and we ended up with four spoons fighting for the remaining Tomato juice in the bottom of the bowl. Lastly from the starters was Char grilled sprouting broccoli , Chiankiang Vinegar and salted egg yolk (£9.50) which our waiter advised was his favourite on the menu.
I have no idea what the Vinegar was but the broccoli was beautifully grilled and to the side was a kind of egg yolk purée smeared across the plate with additions which we were explained to us but my brain cannot recall as by now was in overload. In fact each and every dish appeared to have so many previously unheard of ingredients (which I was not writing down and was drinking lots of red wine) that I will not be able to do the Restaurant justice. Indeed the restaurant was already thinning out as it was relatively late and it appeared the waiters had more time to explain each and every dish and relished the list of ingredients they were imparting to us. With a keen interest in food and method of preparation etc I was very happy with this, albeit I can imagine it would not be everybody’s cup of tea.
We thought the Octopus involved a long prep but the Beef short rib Pastrami, Horseradish and pistachio involved beef in a brined marinade for 7 days and a process too complicated to remember and report but just to know it involved sodium nitrate to keep the beef a pink colour ( or it would turn an unappetising grey). The beef fell apart at the touch of a fork and it reminded you of a posh version of a pastrami sandwich from Brick Lane, which I think that was the objective. This plate of course had the added luxury of a Horseradish purée, pistachios coating the beef, baby carrots and nasturtium leafs to garnish. It was impeccable and would draw me back for a second visit in itself. Lastly was the Pork Belly with an XO sauce and Cime De Rapa.
The XO is a Chinese sauce which supposedly contains all of the most luxuriant ingredients the Chinese could muster in days gone by. Cime di Rapa are Sicilian turnip tips with a very bitter taste but offset by the sweet XO sauce and blobs of onion purée on the side. The slow roasted pork belly had lots of fat adding to the umami taste in the mouth and if you could manage a bit of pork puff on the same fork you had another texture to enjoy at the same time. Another technically beautifully prepared dish that I would come back for tomorrow.
A wacky parsnip and coconut sorbet with Pandan and coffee – another combination which seems alien (X files again !) together on a plate but had a curious but not unpleasant taste.
The marshmallow being frozen had the taste and consistency of half marshmallow/ half ice cream (in a very pleasing way) which coupled with the sour rhubarb was very pleasant. Our free dessert was the Matcha Ice Cream, Malt Cookie and Miso, a sort of avant garden Creme Brûlée, The Miso sitting in little blobs atop a malty biscuit encasing the matcha ice cream.
The Miso here though was somewhat overpowering and was the one dessert we were not so keen on.
After several reincarnations it was due to be demolished in the 1960s but a campaign was launched to save it and after being Grace II listed and adequate funds were found it reopened as a Theatre and Concert Hall in 1997. Between 2007 and 2015 more works have taken place to ensure a safe environment and utilising money from the Heritage Lottery Fund the building was repaired conservatively retaining many original features so that it is now established as a kind of shabby/chic environment where you are able to see original features, view a small museum and drink cocktails/ eat pizzas and marvel at an array of eclectic performances in its high ceilings original Music Hall.



The bottle appeared to have 2 Angels kissing on the front label ( one male,one female), and that was what it was like to drink. Like kissing an angel, silky smooth, medium bodied and easy to drink without food – this could be a dangerous start to the evening! With my friend Ed planning on cycling back home to North London alarm bells were already ringing.







This dish all went well for me other than the Potato which ironically was the only thing I had bothered practising at home. In my kitchen at home I had use waxy Charlotte Potato’s with clarified butter to make a Pomme Anna in a small frying pan (Jamie Oliver recipe) and it was fab. In school they had different Pots, I used duck fat which made it grey and greasy and the pots just collapsed as either I had cut them too fine or they were not waxy. I will know better next time. But the Jus was perfect and Chicken pretty good too.
The final day of the week was an all day Demo that in the morning involved Terrines,Confit And Foie Gras, and in the afternoon a Croissant masterclass. I love Foie Gras and some of the food plated up and given out to taste was some of the best we have had for the whole course , even if some people had ethical issues with the Foie Gras process. We were all a little shocked to learn that each 100 grams of Foie Gras contains 400 calories so we probably all consumed in excess of 2000 calories during a two and a half hour Demo!
Who knew that Foie Gras was also behind the invention of the Sous Vide ? A producer of Foie Gras in France was tired of losing 50% of his produce when being cooked as it was melting away. He came up with the idea of sealing it in a bag and cooking it in water to ensure none of the product disappeared, and thereafter, after this success, he went on to work with Alain Ducasse and Thomas Keller and came up with the Sous Vide method of cooking and machine. Good food history there !